#44 December 2011 New Smyrna - Merritt Island - Boca Raton - Ft. Lauderdale - Marathon

Tree within a tree

On December 1, we sadly bade our New Smyrna sailing friends, John and Cozette, adieu but not before seeing the city's tree within a tree in the park across from the museum.  The oak is tightly embracing the pine as if protecting it from storms.

Our friend, Duffy

Always a treat that we anticipate is anchoring in our friend, Bobbi's, backyard on Merritt Island, and visiting with her.  Duffy's prepared to fend for himself while the 3 of us go to our favorite Mexican restaurant there.

A tranquil reflection and a benefit of anchoring

Friends in Ft. Pierce, Marlene and Chuck, graciously let us tie to their dock while we had our dinghy repaired.  We used their car and enjoyed some of the history of their city.

USN Seal Museum
Ft. Pierce, FL

We were overwhelmed and awed as we were taught the process of becoming a Navy Seal.  Last year when we toured the USNA, I was blown away by the criteria for admission to say nothing of requirements for graduation but the Seal training seems even more grueling.  One of their weeks of rigorous training is called Hell Week.  They don't have time to eat but very little and sleep only 5-6 hours for the entire week.  I believe they have this aptly named. The Seals raise the bar!

Our next port was Boca Raton, whose literal translation is "Mouth of the Mouse".  Boca is Spanish for 'inlet' and Raton is Spanish for 'mouse'.  Believe us, there is nothing mousy about Boca!!!  Raton is also a Spanish nautical term describing rocks that gnawed at  ships' cables.

One of the gardens at the resort

Boca is known for its affluent social community and high income demographic.  It has a strict development code banning outdoor car dealerships within the municipality.  No billboards are permitted in the city.  Many buildings have Mediterranean and Spanish architectural themes, initially inspired by Addison Mizner, and significant landscaping is in place.

Dome in entry of an entry!

During the city's early history during the Florida land boom, Addison Mizner's Ritz-Carlton Cloister Inn was built in 1926 on 356 acres and later renamed the Boca Raton Resort and Club. Today it's often referred to as the "pink hotel" and its 1969 towering addition is visible from miles away on the Intracostal Waterway.   Its architecture reflects Spanish-Mediterranean, Moorish and Gothic influences.  Hidden Gardens, barrel tile roofs, archways, ornate columns, finials, intricate mosaics, fountains and beamed ceiling of ornate pecky cypress characterize this magnificent place.  I spent an afternoon being pampered with the 4 ritual baths, steam room, inhalation room, and the best massage I've ever had.  That experience defies description.  Each attendant spoke with a different accent and I was "Miss Laura" to each of them.  If you're from the 50's and remember the TV show Queen for the Day---Queen for the Day, I was!

Entry to the Cloister Inn

Our sweet friends, Reid and Lynn,gifted us with "free range" at this Boca Raton Resort and Marina. For a peek into the luxury, see www.bocaresort.com.    This resort employs 2200 representing 60 nations.

A Portion of Boca Raton Resort

We wandered the beautiful streets and were agape at the opulence and wealth of that city. It's a relatively small and concentrated area of 29 square miles but I believe many of the 1% live here. The mansions were amazing in their design, detail, and square footage. Quite a few had 100'+ yachts at their docks.  Old news from 2007, estimates the median income for a household to be $68,000 and for a family, $92,000.  According to Forbes, this is the home to 3 of the 10 most expensive gated communities in the U.S.  We drove through the Royal Palm Yacht and Country Club and it holds the #1 spot.  Below is a house on the real estate market for a pittance.

A mere $13,900,900

Wine bottles line arched doorways in one of the many resort bars.

Interestingly, I learned that Boca is the spam capital of the world, being the source of a significant proportion of all spam generated worldwide.  Given the area's appeal, the personal fortunes of typical spammers,and the area's notorious past as a fave of organized crime, this really shouldn't be too surprising.  The city was once called the "only coastal city in FL where there are more sharks on land than in the water" and has been described as the "Capone-Chicago of cyber fraud".  Again, "old news" but in 2007 it was reported that there were nine known gangs operating in Boca Raton.

Boca Raton Resort and Marina

Despite the magnificence of the homes (see run-of-the-mill mansion below), the yachts, mega-yachts, and super-yachts are unbelievable to behold!  One small marina had some 80' to 125' yachts.

An "average size" Boca Raton Mansion

 Landscapers there exhibit their professions with an exceptionally artistic touch.  Disappointingly, the only people we saw out and about on the properties were the "peeps" who groom every blade of grass and maintain everything pristinely.  Don't know where the owners were but we found it sad that we saw NONE enjoying their sparkling pools, manicured lawns, or any of the other things their wealth provides. 

Just another little shanty as we bid Boca adieu!

 It's not sour grapes but I wouldn't trade places with a single one of them.  There so so many Bentley's, Rolls, Ferrari's, Lamborghini's, etc., that we felt sorry for the Carrerra and Jag owners for having to drive low-end cars!

This guy was larger than a dinner plate.  He had dozens of family and friends swimming in his company.  Did you know the jelly fish is the only immortal animal?

A serendipity was connecting with Kelly, a friend I've not seen since mid-'80's when we both lived in Shreveport, LA.  She gave us a driving tour to show us even more extravagance!

Bill and Kelly

As wonderful as Boca was, it was time to move on.  We always look forward to being in downtown Ft. Lauderdale a block off Las Olas on the New River.

The approach and departure is always mind boggling!  At Pier 66 the 100 footers are the small fish in the pond and over shadowed by the 200' super mega yachts.

198' Titan



And look at her bow sprit!

Soon after we got situationed in our slip on the New River just off Los Olas, but also across from a very nice and fancy (from the outside) jail, e spied these newly weds.  Check out his shoes.  My very quick witted friend, Emily, suggested that he might have been "running" late!  Wish I'd thought of that!

                                  In the background is the Ft. Lauderdale City Jail

A stroll down Ft. Lauderdale's Los Olas Boulevard is a treat for the eyes and you never know what you'll see.  There are charming boutiques, small bakeries whose aromas reach out and pull you in, fascinating people-watching...or a foofy dog...

barber shop quartet...

1932 Chevrolet that originally sold for $495....

 

This venture always proves to be exciting and unpredictable.

We love every place we go and always hate to depart but it's time to leave Ft. Lauderdale in our wake and continue south to Billy Baggs State Park and No Name Anchorage.  We nchored in a little bay in the shadow of Cape Florida Lighthouse, built in 1825 and recognized as the oldest structure in South Florida.  Interestingly, it's the only lighthouse to have been attached by Indians.  A U.S. Army base was built there to protect the land and sea from subsequent Indian attacks.

Thursday before Christmas we arrived in Marathon and it was like returning home since we spent three months here last winter.  Six couples who were here last year are already here and were on the dock to greet us and take our lines.  Others are coming after the new year.

No roof tops nor chimneys for Santa in the Keys but we caught a glimpse of him as he rowed from boat to boat delivering his gifts.



Christmas dinner proved to be a sumptuous spread and everyone went away more than sated.

This is definitely a "happnin'" place with a bunch of old folks who love to and are very adept at partying.  There is music within walking distance every night of the week and it's actually music to which us old geezers can cut a rug. 

We're also trying to whip ourselves in shape by following our very fit leader, Tom, on bike rides.  Unfortunately, exercise doesn't "keep" and we've been lax for a month or or two.

Bill's project while we're here is to install a new freezer and refrigeration system.  I have a list of sewing projects to knock out.  Hopefully we can find time and energy to take care of the boat's needs after living like teenagers on spring break!

This month we celebrated 3 years of full-time cruising AKA "living aboard". The learning curve was straight up the first year but now we feel we're on an even keel with all things being easier resulting in our loving it more.  Wouldn't go back to land for anything.  We realize this life style is "temporary" causing us to be thankful for our health, agility, and physical ability to live as Sea Urchins.

New Year's Eve activities are scheduled and all in place so we're looking forward to a very lively welcoming of 2012.  We've had a marvelous year and wish for you a healthy 2012.

Till next year---

Bill and Laura

Marathon, FL

#40 November 2011 Wild Dunes, SC - St. Mary's, GA - New Smyrna Beach, FL #40

November 2011



The captain staring longingly out to sea from the Wild Dunes Pavilion

This month we broke our record for staying in one place for the longest amount of time.  When we arrived Wild Dunes (Charleston), 1 August, our intent was to begin our southern migration on 1 November.  Mechanical things happened and our departure was delayed till the 17th.  If felt so very good to be underway again but it was with regret that we left our familiar location, friends, and home church.  When we awoke the morning of the 17th and it was 44 degrees, we knew it was way past time to head south.

Submarine

Our southward bound weather has been magnificent!  We've had glassy seas, very little traffic (we're almost the tail-end of the Snow Birds), beautiful weather, and comfortable temperatures.

Orange Hall
Circa 1830
St. Mary's, GA

We spent Thanksgiving in St. Mary's, GA, where Seagall's Restaurant and the city put on a wonderful spread for the cruising community.  There were in excess of 100 boats in the anchorage and only 4-5 of them were trawlers.  We met interesting people and had far too much to eat!  With such a grand assortment of dishes, it was difficult to know when to say "when!"  We are very careful to not take our cruising life-style for granted and are thankful daily for the health and ability to enjoy this life. Thanksgiving Day was a very keen reminder of all of our gifts and that everyday gratitude is the elixir of life.

St. Mary's First Presbyterian Church, the oldest church in Georgia

Beautiful Waterfront Park
Downtown St. Mary's

Pine Island, FL, provided a beautiful anchorage for us nestled in Deep Creek State Forest.  We enjoyed sitting on the bridge as the sun was setting and watching a variety of birds as they were feeding.

Our beautiful Pine Island, FL, anchorage where the GA marshes meld with the FL pines and palms

My sweetie who claims to be a "Dog Non-aficionado"!
What do you think?

Spent a delightful evening with friends in Palm Coast who "loaned" us their dock, let us enjoy their new puppy, but wouldn't let us take him home!  On our way to dinner, the 4 of us pulled onto the shoulder of the street to enjoy a magnificent horizon-to-horizon rainbow.  Never have I seen such a perfectly complete rainbow with "all the colors of the rainbow"!

We wrapped up the month in New Smyrna, visiting our sailing friends, Carolina transplants who now call this historic little town "home".  New Smyrna Beach holds the distinction of being the second oldest city in North America, though some historians believe it to be older than St. Augustine.  It offers in excess of 30 historical sites, many historical legends and artifacts, as witness to its rich history.

We visited the history museum and learned that Timucuan Indians lived in the area as early as 2000 BC.  Disease and war finally destroyed their civilization and their population had almost vanished by the time Andrew Turnbull, a physician and entrepreneur, settled New Smyrna in 1767.

New Smyrna, the largest British colonization attempt in the New World, was nearly 3 times larger than the first settlement in Jamestown in 1607.  Dr. Turnbull obtained a land grant from the British Crown, brought with him 1500 European immigrants and declared New Smyrna as Britain's 14th Crown Colony.

We anticipate a delightful evening in our friends' home on the last night of this month and prior to our departure tomorrow.  They've also invited another couple for dinner and both of these couples play stringed instruments.  Tonight we're going to have a great time  with an old-timey hootenanny and wonderfully hospitable friends!





Till this time next month--
Bill and Laura aboard Kindred Spirit III
New Smyrna Yacht Club, FL

#39 Wild Dunes, SC. October 2011

October 2011

Blog # 39

This month continues to find us securely snugged in our slip in Wild Dunes.  Boat work continues---sanding, varnishing, cleaning, draperies finally finished and hanging....  Thought we'd be southward bound by this time but mechanical issues have succeeded in manifesting themselves.  We're waiting on parts to be shipped and installed.  The heat pump for the salon arrived in 2 shipments and not speedily, either.  Upon unpacking it, there's STILL a vital piece missing!  At this rate we'll be celebrating Easter right here!!!  Our wanderlust spirits tell us that we're way overdue in heading south.

Nancy, Bill, and Laura

Despite the "joys" and frustration of boat ownership as well as the uncertainty of this life, we've had many opportunities to catch up with friends.  Nancy, an Atlanta friend, visited us and we shared beautiful SC fall days with her. 

4+ years ago I met Jim in a (believe it or not) ukulele class in Greenville and our paths never crossed again. He tracked us down, contacted us, and came to IOP to spend a day with us.  Jim bought his first trawler in the spring, is staying busy making her his.  We had a conversation-filled visit and spent a delightful day filling his ears with more than he could possibly tolerate.  I love spending other peoples' money so put him in touch with the dock master in Marathon where we'll spend the winter.  So now, so will he!

We missed our "mountain fix" last fall so needed to make it a point to breathe that mountain air this year.  My college roomie and her husband have a summer home perched upon a mountain top in western NC and that was our retreat for a few days.  While we were there, we also visited with mutual friends who live in central FL.

 A fireplace was an enjoyable luxury for us.  We're not fond of cold weather but for a few days it was refreshing.

                             View from our veranda

One of our full-time cruising mentors (who cruise aboard a Nordic Tug) were gracious hosts for us in their home on beautiful Lake Keowee.  We were treated to a Low Country Boil and also a visit with another couple who also have a trawler on Guntersville Lake.

                                  Downtown Greenville's beautiful Falls Park         

    

We retired from Greenville, SC, after living there for decades.  We returned  for a brief stay and fell in love with it all over again.  A navigable river doesn't run through it but it's still a beautiful city that looks very prosperous and  is enjoying tremendous growth.  Bill's "best friend" opened his elegant home to us while we were there, making it possible for us to see quite a few of our old friends.

Downtown Greenville is bisected by a wooded valley park containing the falls of the Reedy River.  Completed in 2004, the Liberty Bridge is located just downstream from this group of waterfalls.  The bridge has a curved clear span over the river that curves away from the falls providing an aerial amphitheatre from which to view the cascading water.

The 345' long bridge gently slopes into the ravine and is supported by 90' twin inclined towers, each weighing 20 tons.  A single suspension cable with thin cable suspenders are only on the side away from the falls allowing for unobstructed views.  The bridge appears to float over the well manicured landscape.  Beneath it, the anchors and piles are 70' deep into the bedrock.

Europe has bridges with similar structural concepts but Liberty Bridge is unique in its geometry and the U.S. has nothing like it.

                       Reedy River Falls

Beneath the bridge is the site where, in 1768, Greenville's first European settler established his trading post.  Later he built saw and grist mills at the same site which was the hub of Greenville's early industry.

In 2006, the Liberty Bridge was awarded the Outstanding Civil Engineering Achievement Merit Award.

Getting back "home" was great and our visits are memorable.  We relish the memories as we resume 'boat work'. 

Would make these...if only I knew where to find 112 pounds of chocolate chips!!!

Mid year 2006, we initiated our "nautical" residence in Charleston.  For 5+ years we've said, "let's tour the USS Yorktown" but kept procrastinating.  On an errand-running day we said, " it's now or never!"  If we were visiting Charleston, which was recently voted the #1 U.S. tourist destination, we'd have made that historic attraction a priority---we we spent an afternoon on the aircraft carrier docked in Patriots Point, Mt. Pleasant.  The Yorktown is the 10th aircraft carrier to serve in the USN  She played a significant role in the Pacific offensive which began late 1943 and ended in 1945 with the defeat of Japan.  Proudly, she earned 11 battle stars for WWII service.

At 888 feet in length, the Yorktown displaced 27,000 tons during WW II, she carried a crew of 380 officers, 3088 enlisted men, and an air group of 90 planes.  In the '50's, she was modified with the addition of an angled deck for jets, increasing her displacement to 41,000 tons.  She served in the Vietnam War in the '60's and in '68, recovered the Apollo 8 astronauts, the first men to reach the vicinity of the Moon.  Decommissioned two years later, the Yorktown was towed from NJ to Charleston and dedicated as a museum in 1975.

                                              Submarine Clamagore

Adjacent to this carrier is a 322' submarine, Clamagore.  She was decommissioned in Philadelphia in 1975, towed to Patriots Point in '81.

                           French tires on US planes in WW II?

Also, on the ground is a true-to-scale exhibit showing the living conditions and operational areas of USN ATSB.  Visitors are taken back to South Vietnam (1965-1970) when the USN supported the ground troops and counter-insurgency ops throughout a network of waterways.  The primary mission of the "Brown Water Navy" was to block the movement of insurgents and their supplies into South Vietnam.  The exhibit features a River Patrol Boat, helicopters, various displays and artifacts relating to the Vietnam War.

                                         Ravenel Bridge from Yorktown's flight deck

Hopefully we'll be heading south very soon and will have more news and pictures for you next month.

Bill and Laura

Wild Dunes

Isle of Palms, SC

#38 Isle of Palms, SC September 2011

September was an exceptionally fun month for us as we were securely tied to our slip in Wild Dunes. Long ago when we were gainfully employed in Greenville, SC, we faithfully arose at 4:40 each weekday morning to meet a group of friends at 5:30 A.M. to get in our morning run and workout before heading off to work to earn our daily bread. Nancy and Wayne were part of this group and we had a wonderful visit with them during their IOP visit.

Wayne and Nancy's visit

The first fort on Sullivan's Island, an island south of IOP, was under construction when 9 warships attacked it in 1776.  After a 9 hour battle, the ships were forced to retire and Charleston was saved from British occupation.  The fort was named in honor of its commander, Colonel William Moultrie.  Four years later, the British finally captured Charleston only to abandon it on the advent of peace.

After the Revolution, Ft. Moultrie was neglected and fell into ruins by 1791.  In 1793, war broke out between France and England.  In 1792, in an effort to safeguard American shores, Congress authorized the first in a system of nationwide coastal fortifications.  In 1798, a second Ft. Moultrie, 1 of 20 new forts along the Atlantic coast, was completed but it, too, suffered from neglect and was finished off by a hurricane in 1804.  In 1809, a 3rd Ft. Moultrie was constructed of brick on Sullivan's Island.

Ft. Moultrie

South Carolina seceded from the Union in 1860 and the Federal garrison abandoned Ft. Moultrie. In the 1870's, Ft. Moultrie was modernized with the installation of huge new cannons, magazines, and bomb proofs built of thick concrete, then buried under tons of earth to absorb the explosion of heavy shells.

Today, Ft. Moultrie has been restored to portray the major periods of its history. A visit here moved us steadily backward in time from the World War II Harbor Entrance Control Post to the site of the Palmetto Log Fort of 1776.

Eye of the Storm
Monolithic Dome Home
Sullivan's Island, SC

Boating friends from our lake boating days, Jenny and Bob from Lake Hartwell, nearby Greenville,  were here for a visit.  We had a blast, lots of laughs and "catching up".  They've added to their fleet of boats, a Jefferson 42, Elliyacht, and look forward to extensive cruising.

Dinner with Jenny and Bob

Bob, another friend from our 5:30 A.M. running group in Greenville, came for a visit with his boat in tow, and his friend...yet another Bob.  We took his little boat to places we can't take ours.  We poked around creeks that lace the beautiful marshes and enjoyed our explorations.  Of course, many meals were interspersed though out our playing.  His son, Bobby, a Charleston resident and musician, joined us for one of our repasts.  We look forward to hearing him play before leaving this area to head south.

The historic Dock Street Theatre, America's first theatre, was the first building in America built exclusively to be used for theatrical performances.  Originally constructed in 1736 at the corner of Church and Queen Streets, the theatre was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1740.

The elegant Planter's Hotel was built on this site in 1809.  The hotel fell into disrepair after the Civil War and was slated for demolition.  In 1935, the old hotel was selected for a Depression Era WPA project.  Within the shell of the defunct Planter's Hotel, a new performance space, modeled on 18th century London playhouses, was constructed.

The theatre was closed for 2 centuries and re-opened in 1937.  Again, in 2007, it closed again and has recently reopened following a $19 million renovation by the City of Charleston.  The Historic Dock Street Theatre has reclaimed her place as the jewel in Charleston's artistic crown.

 

Jim and Martha, Betsy and Jim, and Bill and I, had the opportunity to see the musical, Chicago, at this icon.  We'd seen the movie, own the soundtrack, have always wanted to go to this theatre so Chicago provided the perfect opportunity.  The musical is about murderesses who become media darlings of the 1920's.  Nearly a century later, not much has changed.  This was such a treat and touring the preserved elegance of the 3 floors was as exciting as the performance.

Of all our cruising friends, seems we get to see Steve and Kate more often than anyone else.  Regardless of where we are, our paths continue to cross.  Happily, we've been able to spend quite a bit of time catching up since last we saw them in Miami in the spring.  We've both had some exciting adventures since then; theirs more hair-raising with a lightening strike resulting in wiping out all things electrical and causing a hole in the bottom of their boat.  It's being trucked from Canada to FL for repair, enabling them to make a stop in Charleston for a visit.

Laura, Bill, Kate, and Steve

The U.S. Army's "Spirit of America" made the history of our nation come alive through historical reenactments, a precision drill team and dramatic reenactments.  It is a celebration of our country.  Historical accounts, taken directly from soldiers' letters and diaries, provide the story line for this powerful drama.  It is designed to entertain while presenting the history and development of the U.S. Army from its origins through the wars, conflicts, and missions that have molded the Army and the nation.  Three cities are chosen each year for their presentation and this year Charleston was one of the three.  It was absolutely magnificent and I kept a Kleenex handy during the entire performance. You know, I'm excessively patriotic and this made me even more proud to be an American.  Next year if they perform in your city,  be sure and get tickets to attend.  Believe it or not, it's FREE  but tickets are required and available through Ticketmaster!!!!!!!!!!

This month has absolutely flown!  Window replacement and salon draperies still in progress!  That's it for September. Our October experiences will be posted on Halloween!

Bill and Laura
Kindred Spirit III
Wild Dunes on Isle of Palms, SC