Kindred Spirit III

#45 January 2012 Marathon, FL

2012-01-31T14:30:00.000-05:00

Happy 2012!!!!

We began the year on the right foot with a 40 mile bike ride but our faithfulness to that endeavor has waned for lots of reasons. This is the most socially active place we've ever lived and somehow we aren't learning the art of "picking and choosing". With few exceptions we pretty much are doing it ALL!!! Today a friend kindly and gently reminded me--"just say NO!" Sunday is church and our dock's covered dish 5 PM gathering---and every single night we "gather" at the 4 long picnic tables at 5 PM; Monday morning far too early is the Men's Breakfast; Tuesday morning (too early--anything before 9:30 AM is Too Early) our Bible study meets; Wednesday is my library volunteer day and dancing that night; Thursday is Line Dance class and music at Dockside; Friday is music at Burdine's topped off with their French Fries sprinkled with fairy dust and fried Key Lime Pie. Sounds awful (we don't even like Key Lime Pie) but this is to-die-for.

Burdine's Fried Key Lime Pie

We do love these little mammals! They crave fresh water but there's a sizeable fine for "watering" them. Someone had a drippy hose so I was able to capture them fairly close.

One of our favorite hangouts, Burdine's, and by far, our front-runner musicians, are John, Banjo Barrister, and Joe, guitarist.

Our marina gave a Slip-Holder Appreciation Dinner with entertainment to follow. This little gal with her flaming hula hoop was fantastic. She also is an accupuncturist and massage therapist. In the Keys it's helpful to be multi-talented!

Jim, a friend and new trawler owner from our old stomping grounds, Greenville, SC, arrived this month to spend the winter. Told him he better show up rested because it's tough to keep up with all these geezers! Another SC couple, Bob and Emily, once upon a time full-time cruisers and our mentors as sea urchins, checked into their slip earlier this week in their Nordic Tug. It's fun to have the 3 of them here.

Last weekend was the 100th anniversary of Henry Flagler's Florida Overseas Railway, that took 8 years, 10,000 workers and $50M to complete. It connected the mainland to Key West, then the playground for the wealthy and Florida's most populous and richest city. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the coast was barren from Palm Beach to the southern tip. In 1895 only 9 people lived along the Miami River. In 1896, soon after his railroad passed through Miami, the area became incorporated with almost 800 residents. The Standard Oil tycoon personally financed this project which became known as Flagler's Folly. All the desolation changed and as he laid tracks down the coast, developments sprung up.

The line became known as the Over-Seas Railroad because its track stretched more than 100 miles out into open water. Workers were brought from as nearby as Cuba and as far away as Sweden. Concrete that would harden underwater was imported from Germany.

I sometimes wonder, had it not been for Flagler's prevision and forsightedness, would the Keys still be isolated little islands accessible only by boat?

Flagler's railroad was short-lived. Completed in 1912, a hurricane destroyed not only the railway but also the train that was attempting to evacuate Key West residents to safety. Flagler's bridges and viaducts that connected the Keys, including a 7 mile long bridge, were regarded then as an engineering marvel. Subsequently, a roadbed replaced the tracks, successfully serving motorists until 1982 when that was replaced by new bridges. Portions of the old bridges remain and are useful as fishing piers.

The highway decking on the top is for the old Oversears Highway which is now abandoned for more modern civil engineering. The hump in the middle is where the highway goes up to clear the center channel span.

Unquestionably, time passes faster here than any place we've ever been---either on land or sea. Seems as if Sunday mornings roll around about every other day! We've been here 5 weeks and it seems we've just arrived. Haven't had time to get to Key West yet nor to some of our favorite restaurants! If the months continue to fly this quickly we'll be centenarians in the blink of an eye! Life is short and we're cramming as much into it as possible---eventhough our tails are dragging. We know not what tomorrow holds so drink deep of life's rosy goblet.

Till next month,

Bill and Laura

Kindred Spirit III

Marathon, FL

#44 December 2011 New Smyrna - Merritt Island - Boca Raton - Ft. Lauderdale - Marathon

2011-12-19T09:33:00.001-05:00

Tree within a tree

On December 1, we sadly bade our New Smyrna sailing friends, John and Cozette, adieu but not before seeing the city's tree within a tree in the park across from the museum. The oak is tightly embracing the pine as if protecting it from storms.

Our friend, Duffy

Always a treat that we anticipate is anchoring in our friend, Bobbi's, backyard on Merritt Island, and visiting with her. Duffy's prepared to fend for himself while the 3 of us go to our favorite Mexican restaurant there.

A tranquil reflection and a benefit of anchoring

Friends in Ft. Pierce, Marlene and Chuck, graciously let us tie to their dock while we had our dinghy repaired. We used their car and enjoyed some of the history of their city.

USN Seal Museum
Ft. Pierce, FL

We were overwhelmed and awed as we were taught the process of becoming a Navy Seal. Last year when we toured the USNA, I was blown away by the criteria for admission to say nothing of requirements for graduation but the Seal training seems even more grueling. One of their weeks of rigorous training is called Hell Week. They don't have time to eat but very little and sleep only 5-6 hours for the entire week. I believe they have this aptly named. The Seals raise the bar!

Our next port was Boca Raton, whose literal translation is "Mouth of the Mouse". Boca is Spanish for 'inlet' and Raton is Spanish for 'mouse'. Believe us, there is nothing mousy about Boca!!! Raton is also a Spanish nautical term describing rocks that gnawed at ships' cables.

One of the gardens at the resort

Boca is known for its affluent social community and high income demographic. It has a strict development code banning outdoor car dealerships within the municipality. No billboards are permitted in the city. Many buildings have Mediterranean and Spanish architectural themes, initially inspired by Addison Mizner, and significant landscaping is in place.

Dome in entry of an entry!

During the city's early history during the Florida land boom, Addison Mizner's Ritz-Carlton Cloister Inn was built in 1926 on 356 acres and later renamed the Boca Raton Resort and Club. Today it's often referred to as the "pink hotel" and its 1969 towering addition is visible from miles away on the Intracostal Waterway. Its architecture reflects Spanish-Mediterranean, Moorish and Gothic influences. Hidden Gardens, barrel tile roofs, archways, ornate columns, finials, intricate mosaics, fountains and beamed ceiling of ornate pecky cypress characterize this magnificent place. I spent an afternoon being pampered with the 4 ritual baths, steam room, inhalation room, and the best massage I've ever had. That experience defies description. Each attendant spoke with a different accent and I was "Miss Laura" to each of them. If you're from the 50's and remember the TV show Queen for the Day---Queen for the Day, I was!

Entry to the Cloister Inn

Our sweet friends, Reid and Lynn,gifted us with "free range" at this Boca Raton Resort and Marina. For a peek into the luxury, see www.bocaresort.com. This resort employs 2200 representing 60 nations.

A Portion of Boca Raton Resort

We wandered the beautiful streets and were agape at the opulence and wealth of that city. It's a relatively small and concentrated area of 29 square miles but I believe many of the 1% live here. The mansions were amazing in their design, detail, and square footage. Quite a few had 100'+ yachts at their docks. Old news from 2007, estimates the median income for a household to be $68,000 and for a family, $92,000. According to Forbes, this is the home to 3 of the 10 most expensive gated communities in the U.S. We drove through the Royal Palm Yacht and Country Club and it holds the #1 spot. Below is a house on the real estate market for a pittance.

A mere $13,900,900

Wine bottles line arched doorways in one of the many resort bars.

Interestingly, I learned that Boca is the spam capital of the world, being the source of a significant proportion of all spam generated worldwide. Given the area's appeal, the personal fortunes of typical spammers,and the area's notorious past as a fave of organized crime, this really shouldn't be too surprising. The city was once called the "only coastal city in FL where there are more sharks on land than in the water" and has been described as the "Capone-Chicago of cyber fraud". Again, "old news" but in 2007 it was reported that there were nine known gangs operating in Boca Raton.

Boca Raton Resort and Marina

Despite the magnificence of the homes (see run-of-the-mill mansion below), the yachts, mega-yachts, and super-yachts are unbelievable to behold! One small marina had some 80' to 125' yachts.

An "average size" Boca Raton Mansion

Landscapers there exhibit their professions with an exceptionally artistic touch. Disappointingly, the only people we saw out and about on the properties were the "peeps" who groom every blade of grass and maintain everything pristinely. Don't know where the owners were but we found it sad that we saw NONE enjoying their sparkling pools, manicured lawns, or any of the other things their wealth provides.

Just another little shanty as we bid Boca adieu!

It's not sour grapes but I wouldn't trade places with a single one of them. There so so many Bentley's, Rolls, Ferrari's, Lamborghini's, etc., that we felt sorry for the Carrerra and Jag owners for having to drive low-end cars!

This guy was larger than a dinner plate. He had dozens of family and friends swimming in his company. Did you know the jelly fish is the only immortal animal?

A serendipity was connecting with Kelly, a friend I've not seen since mid-'80's when we both lived in Shreveport, LA. She gave us a driving tour to show us even more extravagance!

Bill and Kelly

As wonderful as Boca was, it was time to move on. We always look forward to being in downtown Ft. Lauderdale a block off Las Olas on the New River.

The approach and departure is always mind boggling! At Pier 66 the 100 footers are the small fish in the pond and over shadowed by the 200' super mega yachts.

198' Titan

And look at her bow sprit!

Soon after we got situationed in our slip on the New River just off Los Olas, but also across from a very nice and fancy (from the outside) jail, e spied these newly weds. Check out his shoes. My very quick witted friend, Emily, suggested that he might have been "running" late! Wish I'd thought of that!

In the background is the Ft. Lauderdale City Jail

A stroll down Ft. Lauderdale's Los Olas Boulevard is a treat for the eyes and you never know what you'll see. There are charming boutiques, small bakeries whose aromas reach out and pull you in, fascinating people-watching...or a foofy dog...

barber shop quartet...

1932 Chevrolet that originally sold for $495....

This venture always proves to be exciting and unpredictable.

We love every place we go and always hate to depart but it's time to leave Ft. Lauderdale in our wake and continue south to Billy Baggs State Park and No Name Anchorage. We nchored in a little bay in the shadow of Cape Florida Lighthouse, built in 1825 and recognized as the oldest structure in South Florida. Interestingly, it's the only lighthouse to have been attached by Indians. A U.S. Army base was built there to protect the land and sea from subsequent Indian attacks.

Thursday before Christmas we arrived in Marathon and it was like returning home since we spent three months here last winter. Six couples who were here last year are already here and were on the dock to greet us and take our lines. Others are coming after the new year.

No roof tops nor chimneys for Santa in the Keys but we caught a glimpse of him as he rowed from boat to boat delivering his gifts.

Christmas dinner proved to be a sumptuous spread and everyone went away more than sated.

This is definitely a "happnin'" place with a bunch of old folks who love to and are very adept at partying. There is music within walking distance every night of the week and it's actually music to which us old geezers can cut a rug.

We're also trying to whip ourselves in shape by following our very fit leader, Tom, on bike rides. Unfortunately, exercise doesn't "keep" and we've been lax for a month or or two.

Bill's project while we're here is to install a new freezer and refrigeration system. I have a list of sewing projects to knock out. Hopefully we can find time and energy to take care of the boat's needs after living like teenagers on spring break!

This month we celebrated 3 years of full-time cruising AKA "living aboard". The learning curve was straight up the first year but now we feel we're on an even keel with all things being easier resulting in our loving it more. Wouldn't go back to land for anything. We realize this life style is "temporary" causing us to be thankful for our health, agility, and physical ability to live as Sea Urchins.

New Year's Eve activities are scheduled and all in place so we're looking forward to a very lively welcoming of 2012. We've had a marvelous year and wish for you a healthy 2012.

Till next year---

Bill and Laura

Marathon, FL

#40 November 2011 Wild Dunes, SC - St. Mary's, GA - New Smyrna Beach, FL #40

2011-11-19T16:08:00.001-05:00

November 2011

The captain staring longingly out to sea from the Wild Dunes Pavilion

This month we broke our record for staying in one place for the longest amount of time. When we arrived Wild Dunes (Charleston), 1 August, our intent was to begin our southern migration on 1 November. Mechanical things happened and our departure was delayed till the 17th. If felt so very good to be underway again but it was with regret that we left our familiar location, friends, and home church. When we awoke the morning of the 17th and it was 44 degrees, we knew it was way past time to head south.

Submarine

Our southward bound weather has been magnificent! We've had glassy seas, very little traffic (we're almost the tail-end of the Snow Birds), beautiful weather, and comfortable temperatures.

Orange Hall
Circa 1830
St. Mary's, GA

We spent Thanksgiving in St. Mary's, GA, where Seagall's Restaurant and the city put on a wonderful spread for the cruising community. There were in excess of 100 boats in the anchorage and only 4-5 of them were trawlers. We met interesting people and had far too much to eat! With such a grand assortment of dishes, it was difficult to know when to say "when!" We are very careful to not take our cruising life-style for granted and are thankful daily for the health and ability to enjoy this life. Thanksgiving Day was a very keen reminder of all of our gifts and that everyday gratitude is the elixir of life.

St. Mary's First Presbyterian Church, the oldest church in Georgia

Beautiful Waterfront Park
Downtown St. Mary's

Pine Island, FL, provided a beautiful anchorage for us nestled in Deep Creek State Forest. We enjoyed sitting on the bridge as the sun was setting and watching a variety of birds as they were feeding.

Our beautiful Pine Island, FL, anchorage where the GA marshes meld with the FL pines and palms

My sweetie who claims to be a "Dog Non-aficionado"!
What do you think?

Spent a delightful evening with friends in Palm Coast who "loaned" us their dock, let us enjoy their new puppy, but wouldn't let us take him home! On our way to dinner, the 4 of us pulled onto the shoulder of the street to enjoy a magnificent horizon-to-horizon rainbow. Never have I seen such a perfectly complete rainbow with "all the colors of the rainbow"!

We wrapped up the month in New Smyrna, visiting our sailing friends, Carolina transplants who now call this historic little town "home". New Smyrna Beach holds the distinction of being the second oldest city in North America, though some historians believe it to be older than St. Augustine. It offers in excess of 30 historical sites, many historical legends and artifacts, as witness to its rich history.

We visited the history museum and learned that Timucuan Indians lived in the area as early as 2000 BC. Disease and war finally destroyed their civilization and their population had almost vanished by the time Andrew Turnbull, a physician and entrepreneur, settled New Smyrna in 1767.

New Smyrna, the largest British colonization attempt in the New World, was nearly 3 times larger than the first settlement in Jamestown in 1607. Dr. Turnbull obtained a land grant from the British Crown, brought with him 1500 European immigrants and declared New Smyrna as Britain's 14th Crown Colony.

We anticipate a delightful evening in our friends' home on the last night of this month and prior to our departure tomorrow. They've also invited another couple for dinner and both of these couples play stringed instruments. Tonight we're going to have a great time with an old-timey hootenanny and wonderfully hospitable friends!

Till this time next month--
Bill and Laura aboard Kindred Spirit III
New Smyrna Yacht Club, FL

#39 Wild Dunes, SC. October 2011

2011-10-31T15:42:00.001-04:00

October 2011

Blog # 39

This month continues to find us securely snugged in our slip in Wild Dunes. Boat work continues---sanding, varnishing, cleaning, draperies finally finished and hanging.... Thought we'd be southward bound by this time but mechanical issues have succeeded in manifesting themselves. We're waiting on parts to be shipped and installed. The heat pump for the salon arrived in 2 shipments and not speedily, either. Upon unpacking it, there's STILL a vital piece missing! At this rate we'll be celebrating Easter right here!!! Our wanderlust spirits tell us that we're way overdue in heading south.

Nancy, Bill, and Laura

Despite the "joys" and frustration of boat ownership as well as the uncertainty of this life, we've had many opportunities to catch up with friends. Nancy, an Atlanta friend, visited us and we shared beautiful SC fall days with her.

4+ years ago I met Jim in a (believe it or not) ukulele class in Greenville and our paths never crossed again. He tracked us down, contacted us, and came to IOP to spend a day with us. Jim bought his first trawler in the spring, is staying busy making her his. We had a conversation-filled visit and spent a delightful day filling his ears with more than he could possibly tolerate. I love spending other peoples' money so put him in touch with the dock master in Marathon where we'll spend the winter. So now, so will he!

We missed our "mountain fix" last fall so needed to make it a point to breathe that mountain air this year. My college roomie and her husband have a summer home perched upon a mountain top in western NC and that was our retreat for a few days. While we were there, we also visited with mutual friends who live in central FL.

A fireplace was an enjoyable luxury for us. We're not fond of cold weather but for a few days it was refreshing.

View from our veranda

One of our full-time cruising mentors (who cruise aboard a Nordic Tug) were gracious hosts for us in their home on beautiful Lake Keowee. We were treated to a Low Country Boil and also a visit with another couple who also have a trawler on Guntersville Lake.

Downtown Greenville's beautiful Falls Park

We retired from Greenville, SC, after living there for decades. We returned for a brief stay and fell in love with it all over again. A navigable river doesn't run through it but it's still a beautiful city that looks very prosperous and is enjoying tremendous growth. Bill's "best friend" opened his elegant home to us while we were there, making it possible for us to see quite a few of our old friends.

Downtown Greenville is bisected by a wooded valley park containing the falls of the Reedy River. Completed in 2004, the Liberty Bridge is located just downstream from this group of waterfalls. The bridge has a curved clear span over the river that curves away from the falls providing an aerial amphitheatre from which to view the cascading water.

The 345' long bridge gently slopes into the ravine and is supported by 90' twin inclined towers, each weighing 20 tons. A single suspension cable with thin cable suspenders are only on the side away from the falls allowing for unobstructed views. The bridge appears to float over the well manicured landscape. Beneath it, the anchors and piles are 70' deep into the bedrock.

Europe has bridges with similar structural concepts but Liberty Bridge is unique in its geometry and the U.S. has nothing like it.

Reedy River Falls

Beneath the bridge is the site where, in 1768, Greenville's first European settler established his trading post. Later he built saw and grist mills at the same site which was the hub of Greenville's early industry.

In 2006, the Liberty Bridge was awarded the Outstanding Civil Engineering Achievement Merit Award.

Getting back "home" was great and our visits are memorable. We relish the memories as we resume 'boat work'.

Would make these...if only I knew where to find 112 pounds of chocolate chips!!!

Mid year 2006, we initiated our "nautical" residence in Charleston. For 5+ years we've said, "let's tour the USS Yorktown" but kept procrastinating. On an errand-running day we said, " it's now or never!" If we were visiting Charleston, which was recently voted the #1 U.S. tourist destination, we'd have made that historic attraction a priority---we we spent an afternoon on the aircraft carrier docked in Patriots Point, Mt. Pleasant. The Yorktown is the 10th aircraft carrier to serve in the USN She played a significant role in the Pacific offensive which began late 1943 and ended in 1945 with the defeat of Japan. Proudly, she earned 11 battle stars for WWII service.

At 888 feet in length, the Yorktown displaced 27,000 tons during WW II, she carried a crew of 380 officers, 3088 enlisted men, and an air group of 90 planes. In the '50's, she was modified with the addition of an angled deck for jets, increasing her displacement to 41,000 tons. She served in the Vietnam War in the '60's and in '68, recovered the Apollo 8 astronauts, the first men to reach the vicinity of the Moon. Decommissioned two years later, the Yorktown was towed from NJ to Charleston and dedicated as a museum in 1975.

Submarine Clamagore

Adjacent to this carrier is a 322' submarine, Clamagore. She was decommissioned in Philadelphia in 1975, towed to Patriots Point in '81.

French tires on US planes in WW II?

Also, on the ground is a true-to-scale exhibit showing the living conditions and operational areas of USN ATSB. Visitors are taken back to South Vietnam (1965-1970) when the USN supported the ground troops and counter-insurgency ops throughout a network of waterways. The primary mission of the "Brown Water Navy" was to block the movement of insurgents and their supplies into South Vietnam. The exhibit features a River Patrol Boat, helicopters, various displays and artifacts relating to the Vietnam War.

Ravenel Bridge from Yorktown's flight deck

Hopefully we'll be heading south very soon and will have more news and pictures for you next month.

Bill and Laura

Wild Dunes

Isle of Palms, SC

#38 Isle of Palms, SC September 2011

2011-09-29T08:54:00.000-04:00

September was an exceptionally fun month for us as we were securely tied to our slip in Wild Dunes. Long ago when we were gainfully employed in Greenville, SC, we faithfully arose at 4:40 each weekday morning to meet a group of friends at 5:30 A.M. to get in our morning run and workout before heading off to work to earn our daily bread. Nancy and Wayne were part of this group and we had a wonderful visit with them during their IOP visit.

Wayne and Nancy's visit

The first fort on Sullivan's Island, an island south of IOP, was under construction when 9 warships attacked it in 1776. After a 9 hour battle, the ships were forced to retire and Charleston was saved from British occupation. The fort was named in honor of its commander, Colonel William Moultrie. Four years later, the British finally captured Charleston only to abandon it on the advent of peace.

After the Revolution, Ft. Moultrie was neglected and fell into ruins by 1791. In 1793, war broke out between France and England. In 1792, in an effort to safeguard American shores, Congress authorized the first in a system of nationwide coastal fortifications. In 1798, a second Ft. Moultrie, 1 of 20 new forts along the Atlantic coast, was completed but it, too, suffered from neglect and was finished off by a hurricane in 1804. In 1809, a 3rd Ft. Moultrie was constructed of brick on Sullivan's Island.

Ft. Moultrie

South Carolina seceded from the Union in 1860 and the Federal garrison abandoned Ft. Moultrie. In the 1870's, Ft. Moultrie was modernized with the installation of huge new cannons, magazines, and bomb proofs built of thick concrete, then buried under tons of earth to absorb the explosion of heavy shells.

Today, Ft. Moultrie has been restored to portray the major periods of its history. A visit here moved us steadily backward in time from the World War II Harbor Entrance Control Post to the site of the Palmetto Log Fort of 1776.

Eye of the Storm
Monolithic Dome Home
Sullivan's Island, SC

Boating friends from our lake boating days, Jenny and Bob from Lake Hartwell, nearby Greenville, were here for a visit. We had a blast, lots of laughs and "catching up". They've added to their fleet of boats, a Jefferson 42, Elliyacht, and look forward to extensive cruising.

Dinner with Jenny and Bob

Bob, another friend from our 5:30 A.M. running group in Greenville, came for a visit with his boat in tow, and his friend...yet another Bob. We took his little boat to places we can't take ours. We poked around creeks that lace the beautiful marshes and enjoyed our explorations. Of course, many meals were interspersed though out our playing. His son, Bobby, a Charleston resident and musician, joined us for one of our repasts. We look forward to hearing him play before leaving this area to head south.

The historic Dock Street Theatre, America's first theatre, was the first building in America built exclusively to be used for theatrical performances. Originally constructed in 1736 at the corner of Church and Queen Streets, the theatre was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1740.

The elegant Planter's Hotel was built on this site in 1809. The hotel fell into disrepair after the Civil War and was slated for demolition. In 1935, the old hotel was selected for a Depression Era WPA project. Within the shell of the defunct Planter's Hotel, a new performance space, modeled on 18th century London playhouses, was constructed.

The theatre was closed for 2 centuries and re-opened in 1937. Again, in 2007, it closed again and has recently reopened following a $19 million renovation by the City of Charleston. The Historic Dock Street Theatre has reclaimed her place as the jewel in Charleston's artistic crown.

Jim and Martha, Betsy and Jim, and Bill and I, had the opportunity to see the musical, Chicago, at this icon. We'd seen the movie, own the soundtrack, have always wanted to go to this theatre so Chicago provided the perfect opportunity. The musical is about murderesses who become media darlings of the 1920's. Nearly a century later, not much has changed. This was such a treat and touring the preserved elegance of the 3 floors was as exciting as the performance.

Of all our cruising friends, seems we get to see Steve and Kate more often than anyone else. Regardless of where we are, our paths continue to cross. Happily, we've been able to spend quite a bit of time catching up since last we saw them in Miami in the spring. We've both had some exciting adventures since then; theirs more hair-raising with a lightening strike resulting in wiping out all things electrical and causing a hole in the bottom of their boat. It's being trucked from Canada to FL for repair, enabling them to make a stop in Charleston for a visit.

Laura, Bill, Kate, and Steve

The U.S. Army's "Spirit of America" made the history of our nation come alive through historical reenactments, a precision drill team and dramatic reenactments. It is a celebration of our country. Historical accounts, taken directly from soldiers' letters and diaries, provide the story line for this powerful drama. It is designed to entertain while presenting the history and development of the U.S. Army from its origins through the wars, conflicts, and missions that have molded the Army and the nation. Three cities are chosen each year for their presentation and this year Charleston was one of the three. It was absolutely magnificent and I kept a Kleenex handy during the entire performance. You know, I'm excessively patriotic and this made me even more proud to be an American. Next year if they perform in your city, be sure and get tickets to attend. Believe it or not, it's FREE but tickets are required and available through Ticketmaster!!!!!!!!!!

This month has absolutely flown! Window replacement and salon draperies still in progress! That's it for September. Our October experiences will be posted on Halloween!

Bill and Laura
Kindred Spirit III
Wild Dunes on Isle of Palms, SC

#37 Wild Dunes, Isle of Palms, SC, - Tallahassee, FL, - Pensacola, FL, - Daphne, AL, - New Orleans, LA, - Longview, TX, - Shreveport, LA, - Atlanta, GA, - Charlotte, NC, - Wild Dunes, SC. August 2011

2011-08-31T00:13:00.001-04:00

View from atop the Isle of Palms Connector of ICW and Atlantic Ocean

The first part of our month was life as usual for us as boat work continued. Mid-month we took one of Enterprise's cars and put 3000 miles on it in twelve days. The purpose of our journey was to visit my 4 sons, their children and my precious great grand son.

Puppy dogs and little children playing in the surf on Wild Dunes

Ravenel Bridge connecting Mt. Pleasant and Charleston

I am a native Floridian and we're both currently Florida residents so it seemed only fitting to see our beautiful state capitol and the interesting art deco buildings in the surrounding area.

Florida State Capitol in Tallahassee

We made a very brief stop in Pensacola to lunch with Emily, a friend of mine since she and I were in the 4th grade, and a quick visit to residents in the assisted living facility where my parents lived before their deaths a few years ago. A great pause in our day.

Daphne, AL, is home to my eldest son, Chad, and his children, Sydney and Zack. We had a great visit and got to watch Zack at his first soccer practice. Sydney is finishing high school this semester and is concurrently taking 6 college hours in addition to working! What an energetic and beautiful young woman.

Entrance to our room in the quaint French Quarter Hotel St. Pierre

We had to bide our time somewhere while we waited for the weekend when sons weren't working and grandchildren weren't in school so what better place than New Orleans to "kill time". It had been decades since we'd been there so it was time to see what we'd been missing.

LOVE Central Grocery's Muffalettas! There are many imitations but no duplications.

One delightful evening we spent at the Preservation Hall for some pleasurable Dixie Lane Jazz. The venue is very small and the audience was absolutely enthralled with the musicians and their music. Bill was so taken with their music that he returned another night by himself.

Mardi Gras beads hanging from trees along St. Charles Street

Sculpture of General Andrew Jackson with St. Louis Cathedral in background.

Bridge spanning the Mississippi River in New Orleans

One of the many beautiful old buildings in the French Quarter

The streetcar lines kept us thoroughly entertained one full day. We rode St. Charles Avenue and Canal Street streetcars. The City Park and also Audubon Park was a real oasis. The ferry that runs from the River Walk to The Point on Algiers provided a great photo op of the NOLA skyline and a brief visit with a local and some tourists.

My 3rd son, Andy, lives in Longview, TX, with his little children, Izzi and Joseph. We had a fun visit with them and my 4th son, Stephen, who drove in from Austin to visit with us, his many nieces, nephews, and 3 brothers. Later in the weekend, son #2, Matt and his wife, Hope, arrived from Dallas with 4 daughters Hailey, Morgan, Kate, and Lily and my first great grandson, Tristan, who is Hailey's son. Matt and his crew returned to Dallas, Stephen headed back to Austin, and Joseph and Izzi were looking forward to their 1st day of school on Monday so it was time for us to keep moving.

Andy

Chad

Stephen

Matt

Zipping through Shreveport where I lived for many years umpteen years ago, some strange gravitational force dragged us off the interstate to a restaurant where I had consumed more meals than I can remember. Jan, my dear dear friend who still lives there scooted over from work to grab a quick lunch with us and it was such a gift to be able to spend those few minutes with her.

Atlanta was our next stop with plans to visit my brother, Bob, and my last remaining aunt, 87 year old Aunt Ruth. When I'm her age I want to be as young as she is! Besides enjoying neighborhood haunts in our friend Nancy's quaint and time-honored neighborhood of old Fourth Ward (as well as her guest room) we were also near Bob's home in Morningside. While they worked, we took advantage of some of Atlanta's history.

The New World of Coke

We wandered Atlanta's downtown streets after spending several hours in the GA Aquarium, the world's largest, with over 8 million gallons of water. We've been to our National Aquarium in Baltimore but believe this to be more spectacular . One tank is larger than a football field and with more aquatic life than found in any other aquarium. We were fascinated by the magnificent array of species.

I just love this albino gater and his reflection!

Magnificent Lion Fish

In historic Grant Park is the Cyclorama housing the largest painting in the world depicting the Battle of Atlanta in 1864. We took a stirring journey through time as we sat in the center of this sweeping panorama during American Civil War of the battle fought on July 22.

On that day Confederate troops lead by General John Hood made a desperate attempt to save Atlanta from the encircling Union armies. Initially they were successful but Major General William T. Sherman led the Union troops in and regained positions they'd lost earlier in the day and they won the battle. That day more than 12,000 soldiers were killed, wounded or missing. Adjacent to the cyclorama is the Atlanta Zoo and there's a historical and very interesting tale as to why they are located together.

Our final stop was Charlotte, NC, so that Bill could attend an old/antique car show. He spent the entire weekend immersing himself in old collector cars and those who appreciate them while I enjoyed exploring Charlotte.

On Sunday we dragged our happy but weary selves back to Mt. Pleasant, SC, and Kindred Spirit to find her as we left her only because Irene's path gave us a break. We loved our visits with my progeny...and theirs...and visits with friends and other kin and we were surprised at how much of different cities we were able to see. We played the tourist role more than we had expected.

Now it's back to completing the window replacements and making new draperies for the salon. That should keep us busy and out of trouble at least for a while. Enjoy your Labor Day weekend and we'll catch up with you in 30 days.

Fondly,

Bill and Laura

Wild Dunes

Isle of Palms, SC

#36 July 2011 St. Simons Island, GA - Shelter Cove Marina, Hilton Head Island - Isle of Palms, SC

2011-07-31T09:13:00.000-04:00

We began the month of July in Shelter Cove Marina, Hilton Head Island, SC, and are loving being here. Never would we have expected to find ourselves in SC in July but after 102 degree days last July in Washington DC, we decided to take our chances. We can't deny that it was HOT but think we fared far better than much of the country.

Sea Pines Oak

In 1663, Captain William Hilton saw a headland near Port Royal Sound's entrance so he named it after himself---Hilton Head. The island has 12 miles of Atlantic Ocean beachfront as well as a rich history beginning thousands of years ago with seasonal occupation by native Americans. It continued with European exploration and cotton trade and was an important base of operations for the Union blockade of the Southern ports during the Civil War. Hundreds of ex-slaves flocked to Hilton Head once the island fell to Union troops and this is still home to many of whom are descendants of freed slaves. They are known as the Gullah (or Geechee) who have managed to hold onto much of their cultural and ethnic identity.

An even earlier historical fact is that near the east entrance to Sea Pines Forest Preserve is an ancient Shell Ring that's 150 feet in diameter. It's believed to be over 4000 years old and is one of only 20 in existence. Archaeologists believe that it was a refuse heap that the Native Americans created and they lived in the center of it which was kept clear and used as a common area. The ring is listed in the National Register of Historic Places and is protected by law.

Sculpture at Harbor Town

This is a very eco-friendly island that minimizes the impact of development and governs the style of buildings and how they are situated among existing trees. Because of this, the area enjoys an unusual amount of tree cover relative to the amount of development.

Everywhere the landscaping is meticulously maintained. We never see any litter--not even a cigarette butt. The buildings surrounding this harbour have been here approximately 35 years and are expertly nurtured, showing no sign of their age.

The heat didn't keep us off our bikes. Those little 20" Michelin tires rolled many miles. We discovered a rustic little park with pine needle strewn paths leading to beautiful marshes with Port Royal Sound sparkling in the background.

The month passed far too quickly. There are bike and running trails that take you anywhere on this that you wish to go and we're right in the middle of the island making everything positively convenient.

An example of the bike/running trails

I have a "soap box" or two (don't look so surprised!!!) and one of them is bicycle safety. I wouldn't think of riding around the block without my helmet. We've both gone down in considerably benign situations and (of course) with no warning. Our helmets saved our skulls! I consider riders without helmets as organ donors. Bike rentals here are tremendous and rarely do I see any of these riders wearing a helmet. Parents will have a toddler or small child either in a little bike seat or on a tag-a-long and no one is wearing a helmet which smacks of total irresponsibility. Why would that not be considered child abuse? I just cringe to think of those tiny little heads hitting the asphalt. We've heard many of the parents admit to not having ridden a bike in years and that's so obvious by the way they're swaying like a willow in the wind.

Our own "physical maintenance" has been put on the back burner for 3 months so we're taking advantage of this exercise-friendly place in an effort to get us whipped back into shape. Despite the July heat, the paths are canopied by beautiful trees that are bearded in moss, providing much appreciated shade. We've been here several times before but always felt our stay was too short...and now a month has felt too short.

After returning from the Bahamas when no boat maintenance was done, 3 months of neglect took its toll not only on our level of fitness but also on our boat. Bright work has been happening----

This is what "doing bright work" looks like!

Lots of scrubbing and cleaning (we're still finding Bahamas sand in the most unlikely places); phifertex sunscreens were made for inside of lower helm station windows; salt crystal build-up from Bahamas sea water has been purged from lines---just lots of 'catching up' to do to keep her ship-shape.

Tuesday's fireworks as seen from our fly bridge

Each Tuesday night, Shelter Cove treats us to a dazzling fireworks display and many tourists come here to watch the show. People-watching is almost as much of a treat as the pyrotechnics.

Shoulder to shoulder mob scene on Tuesday evenings in anticipation of the 9 PM fireworks

Our friends from our old hometown of Greenville, SC, were here for a week. Jim and Bill have known each other for years through their employment at Michelin Tire. Marybeth and I used to do our swim workouts together at 5:30 AM (which is hard for me to believe ever happened as viewed from my lazy sleeping-in days of retirement). Their daughter, Heather, who's teetering upon her freshman college year, came with them to "decompress" from a mission trip and "rest up" for pre-college parties.

The famous Neptune sculpture serves as a popular centerpiece at Shelter Cove Harbour

The towering 12-foot bronze statue of Neptune, which is also a larger-than-life sundial, serves as an iconic symbol of Shelter Cove Harbour at Palmetto Dunes, welcoming visitors to the entrance of the popular waterfront dining and shopping location. This much-loved statue serves as a tribute to the Roman god of the sea and depicts a bearded Neptune holding his signature trident. The statue is mounted on a 26 foot circular base whose edge is numbered. When the trident’s shadow falls across the base, the numbers indicate the precise time. It is said to be the world’s largest figurative sundial. Engineers made meticulous measurements (but isn't that their nature?) ensuring that it would be located at the ideal angle to indicate the time. The sculpture is oriented toward true south by aligning the constellation Ursa Major with the North Star.

Shelter Cove Marina Office and Ship's Store

We concluded our month with an evening at a intimately small theatre which is a very short walk from the marina. Smokey Joe's Cafe, a most delightful and enjoyable two hours of 39 rock and roll, rhythm and blues song written by Jerry Leiber and Mike Stoller and outstanding choreography. The cast was 9 singers and dancers and the songs were performed with no unifying theme nor dialogue. There were novelty songs ("Charlie Brown"), romantic ballads ("Spanish Harlem") and infectious melodies ("There Goes My Baby"). If you've not seen this musical, run, don't walk, to the nearest venue where Smokey Joe's Cafe is playing.

"...but only God can make a tree." Joyce Kilmer

Besides loving all this area has to offer, the marina staff is par excellence. We are sad to say "goodbye" but we will be back.

It isn't often that we see a sunrise but this will be a long hot day so the earlier the start we get the better it'll be. This month ends as well pull into our slip at Wild Dunes, Isle of Palms, SC.

We arose with the sun for a change to get a head start on our long day to Isle of Palms

Bill and Laura
Shelter Cove Marina
Hilton Head Island, SC

#35 June 2011 The Abacos - Treasure Cay - Green Turtle - Crab Cay - Great Sale - West End. Ft. Pierce - Merritt Island - New Smyrna - Palm Coast, Florida. St. Simons Island, GA

2011-06-29T15:17:00.001-04:00

The cruising destinations that we've chosen over the past couple of months could be called "The Lost Bahamas". The Bahamians wouldn't consider them "lost" but for us who live on the other side of the Gulf Stream, the islands we've visited seem 'misplaced' because although we cruisers crave adventure, we also want security. It seems we aim the pointy part of the boat in the same tried-and-true directions again and again. By visiting the same crowded islands each year, the only "real" Bahamas that we see are merely glimpsed way-y-y-y over there on the horizon while hurrying to another well-populated tourist spot.

Which way...?

With the courage to venture beyond our comfort zone, there are so many treasures in these waters that haven't changed in decades. They are so infrequently visited because of cruisers' uncertainty, lack of confidence in their navigational/piloting skills, fear of doing something different or a multitude of other reasons. So these idyllic jewels with which God has embellished our planet are missed by so many and enjoyed by far too few. These are out-islands with the emphasis being on "out"; treasures bobbing in the sea. There is so much more to the Bahamas than Nassau, Freeport, Lucaya, and Georgetown!!!

A Green Turtle Watering Hole

I was ecstatic at the multitude of color changes in the water. Sometimes it was as if we were floating in an ink well (if you’re from that era) filled with blue ink and studded with diamonds. Then it would change to a translucent green---then to clear blue…then colorless crystal clear. I was more excited at the possibilities that lay before us and that my “dream” was actually coming to pass—than I ever was as a child anticipating Christmas.

The scenery is breathtakingly majestic and it's easy to understand why the Spanish named it "Bajamar" which means 'low tide' because it's a shallow area that juts out of the ocean. The graduated spectrum of the water's colors are from pale aqua to deeper teal to sapphire blue. 700 islands comprise this archipelago and nearly 2400 cays. About 85% of the population are descendants of West African slaves and the remaining progeny coming from the 1st English settlers by way of Bermuda and Loyalist expatriate Americans.

How's This For Improvisation???

Treasure Cay provided a lovely treat to overlook the emerald green and aquamarine waters that fade into the powdered sand; one of the world's most magnificent beaches.

Our final stop in civilization was Green Turtle, a small island with a population of 450 and filled with an abundant history. It is one of the earliest settlements on Abaco. Pirates used 2 harbors as hide-outs during the 17th and 18th centuries. There's a darling little settlement, New Plymouth, founded in 1784 and deeply rooted in African and Loyalist cultures.

We visited the sculpture garden with bronze busts commemorating the Loyalist settlers. There is also an art gallery and museum tucked in among restaurants and businesses lining the neat streets punctuated with colorful pastel painted buildings.

During the 19th century many large industries were on the island---wrecking, pineapple farms, bootlegging and shark fishing. During this time many residents moved to Key West and in 1977, the 2 became Sister Islands.

As much as we enjoyed these past 2 months in the islands, I've gotta say that terra firma USA looked awfully good to us as we pulled into Ft. Pierce, FL. Our insurance requires that we be north of Cumberland by 1 July and we made it with a few days to spare.

Ft. Pierce City Marina and Park

Our Ft. Pierce friends, the Woods, were most gracious to us during our stay at their dock and we delighted in the opportunity to visit with them.

We gave this guy wide berth!

We always look forward to visiting with Bobbi in Merritt Island. She's so very accommodating. In New Smyrna, the Jacobs saved our sanity and our hides during a laptop failure by referring us to their independent computer technician (beware of Big Box Stores technical staff!), giving us a car, feeding us, listening to our tales of woe, and providing for us a much needed oasis. Our intended 1 night stay there extended into 5 nights.) This is a very historic little town and is the oldest continuous settlement in the New World.

How do you know when you have enough power???

The Kipnises always make their dock and resources available to us when we are in Palm Coast. To each of you, thank you exponentially, and we loved spending time with you.

St. Simons Lightkeeper's Dwelling and Lighthouse

We are celebrating Bill's birthday as we conclude the month of June on St. Simons Island, GA.

We cycled 40 miles throughout the island to visit historic sites. The Lightkeeper's home, a 2 story Victorian structure, built in 1872, was used as such until 1950. It now serves as the museum.

The lighthouse,also built in 1872, is 104 feet tall, and houses a spiral staircase of 129 steps leading to spectacular and panoramic vistas of the coast. This is one of only five lighthouses that still exist in Georgia and it serves as a navigational aid to ships entering St. Simons Sound. Its beam can be seen 23 miles out to sea.

Not exactly "historic" but from atop the lighthouse we had a great view of Neptune Water Park.

A short bike ride away from the lighthouse is the old Coast Guard station, now a museum showing a "Coastie" learning the ropes and routines of his duty as a Coast Guardsman stationed on St. Simons as he served in the 1940's.

The ruins of old Frederica reminded us of the grim struggle for empire in the southeast more than 250 years ago. The ancient rivals,Spain and Great Britain were the main contenders. We visited the remains of the old village which fell into ruin in mid to late 1700's as well as the old fort. Excavation continues at the site and during the school year, 4th graders in Glynn County schools, participate in the excavation.

Bill and Laura
St. Simons Island, GA
30 June 2011

#34 - Part 3 of 3 May 2010 Little Harbor - Hope Town - Man-O-War - Marsh Harbor - Treasure Cay - Guana Cay - Treasure Cay

2011-05-30T18:48:00.002-04:00

The Spaniards called it Habacoa and they were quite underwhelmed with the entire island of Abaco, Bahamas. They were the first Europeans to explore the island but they moved farther south to settle. Eventually, the British colonized Eleuthera Island and New Providence Island (Nassau) and claimed the entire archipelago as their colony but there weren't any permanent settlements in Abaco for over 200 years after the Lucayan Indians, victims of genocide, were extinct by 1550. Spanish slave traders took them to work in gold mines so hardship, hard work, and disease led to their demise.

France attempted to establish a colony in Abaco in 1625 but that didn't last and there is no trace of the settlement. Pirates knew the waters around Abaco better than anyone and it was so well suited for piracy. The cays are small, water is shallow, and the great anchorages made excellent lookout points for the pirates.

Hope Town School

According to tradition, Wyannie Malone, a widow from SC, founded Hope Town on Elbow Cay.

Hope Town, Abaco, Light House

Hope Town, Abaco, is such a sweet little town and in 1900 it was the most prosperous and largest settlement in Abaco.

The homes and businesses are so well-kept and painted happy hues.

Sidewalk to beach beside the little church we attended.

We went to church there and the pulpit end of the church looks out on the emerald Sea of Abaco and gracefully swaying coconut palms.

Have a seat. No one's in a hurry. This is island time, Mon!

Mooring field from atop Hope Town Light House

During the 1820's, one young couple settled on Man-O-War Cay which was our next stop. Albury Boat Builders produce well-built and well-respected boats. There is a serious inbreeding component in and around this island as well as Spanish Wells, Eleuthera, from where our last post was written.

Marsh Harbor, the island's capital, was a nice stop with ample retail which we've craved, and is the hub of activity in Abaco.

Beautiful Treasure Cay Beach

Treasure Cay is such a lovely spot! It is its main attraction. The beach is most probably one of the loveliest in the world and extends for about 3 miles in a magnificent semi-circle. I'm not a beach person but the walk down the beach is delightful and a plethora of tiny sand dollars ranging in size from that of a dime to the size of a nickle are lying there just for the taking. The point was named Carleton Point and is where the first loyalists settlers came when they left NY and FL because of their opposition to America's independence. They believed this new British colony would prosper because it would gain the British trade which the new United States would lose. This settlement lasted only a few years but there is a bronze plaque commemorating this first Abaco settlement.

Guana's famous Nippers

Guana's other attraction, Grabbers!

For years we've heard of Guana's Nippers Sunday Pig Roast so that was a definite "must do" on our list. What a vast assortment of people, nationalities, ages, degrees of intoxication, and stages of undress. The view was another spectacular one and we looked forward to snorkeling the reef just off Nippers but the wind was really picking up so we vetoed that idea. Leaving Nippers behind we quickly found Grabbers, Guana's only other claim to fame. We enjoyed the food and authentic island music provided by a group who, once upon a time, opened for Bare Foot Man.

Does this bring back the adage, "There's no fool like and old fool"?? This hurts my eyes!

We retraced our path returning to Treasure Cay because of high winds for this coming week. We thought if we needed to be "stuck" somewhere, this would be a great place to be!

I do so love these coconut palm trees!!!

I've been posting these blogs on the last day of every month ( exception being during our Bahamas cruise when I posted more often) and have been notifying you by email each time for the past 2 1/2 years. Enough of a good (or bad) thing is enough!!! I will resume posting the last day of each month but promise to annoy you no longer with "reminder" emails. By now, if you're interested in following our blog, I'm sure you've got it bookmarked, so no more emails announcing our posts. You know where to find them whenever you feel so inclined to see what we sea urchins are up to---because there's no tellin'!

It's raining across Sea of Abaco from Treasure Cay!

Till later--

Relaxing at Grabbers even though "relaxing" is the story of my life!

Bill and Laura

Treasure Cay, Abaco, Bahamas

#34 Part 2 of 3 May 2011 Other Islands in Exuma Chain-- Staniel Cay, Shroud Cay; Eleuthera Spanish Wells, Harbor Island; Little Harbor, Abaco

2011-05-19T14:54:00.002-04:00

It's time to reverse our course and head north where we anchored off Big Majors very near Staniel Cay. We fell in love with that little area and extended our stay even after our buddy boats continued north. The Staniel Cay Yacht Club's reputation preceded it so we passed several hours...several times...to make sure it was as fun as the proverbial 'they' said---and it was.

In the foreground to the left is a sea grape tree.

We used our dinghy to explore many of the little islands and beaches. One of our stops was Sampson Cay Yacht Club where we had lunch and delighted in chatting with the locals.

The Famous Swimming Pigs off Big Majors and Staniel Cay

We can't elaborate on every single stop, although it probably seems like I have, but Shroud Cay was another place to which we had a difficult time saying goodbye. We took the dink to Norman's Cay to see the downed plane, a relic from the drug-running days. The story goes that it dipped its wing to far in preparation for landing and wound up in the drink instead of the landing strip. We look a lazy cruise down Sanctuary Creek en route to see Camp Driftwood. Again, from the druggie days, this was a look-out point for drug-carrying planes coming into Norman's. The view was breath taking from the top of the hill where Camp Driftwood is perched.

Cruise down
Sanctuary Creek led us to Camp Driftwood

Although the Bahamas is a chain of 700 islands, each exhibits its own distinct personality. It's now time to leave the Exuma chain of islands after spending several days in Spanish Wells, Eleuthera, where we did some long over-due house cleaning, provisioning, laundry, and sightseeing. This island, 110 miles long and 2 miles wide, is known as “The Land of Freedom”. Eleutherians who are a synthesis of various peoples and cultural dialects resulting from a blend of American,European, and Caribbean essence. We took the Fast Ferry to Harbor Island, known for their pink coral sand beaches, for a day to tour the little island.

View from Atop Camp Driftwood

We had a long day crossing from northern Eleuthera to southern tip of Abacos. We moored outside the famed Pete's Pub, Foundry, and Gallery. Pete, whose father was Randolph Johnston, a renown bronze sculpturer, makes prized gold jewelry and bronze sea-life pieces that are for sale in the gallery.

They don't often pour molten bronze but the morning we arrived they were preparing to cast. This lost-wax process is thousands of years old dating back to ancient Rome, Greece, and Egypt.

It seemed a bit incongruous to see these sweaty artists peeling out of their asbestos safety gear with opera cranked as loud as it could play in the background. For more information http://www.petespubandgallery.com/. The process is quite long and tedious in days and effort from start to finish. We considered it a real treat to see these artisans at work.

We walked the little sandy path to the top of the hill enjoying the pristine beauty of the native sea grapes and coconut palm trees. To me, there is no tree more graceful than the coconut palm. Their beauty and gracefulness as they sway in the gentle breezes is such a visual tranquilizer.

As we continue to head north we'll keep you aprised on our adventures.

Bill and Laura
Little Harbor, Abaco

#34-Part 1 of 3 May 2011 Warderick Wells - Cambridge - Black Point Settlement

2011-05-06T16:43:00.004-04:00

Exuma's rugged terrain

It's a hefty hike up a jagged limestone trail to Boo Boo Hill at Warderick Wells. A tradition of cruisers is to take a piece of driftwood with the boat name and date to the top of the hill.

Found piece of wood and put all 3 boat names and date on it
Iffin, Sea Angel, Kindred Spirit

Visiting cruisers make a sign with their boat name on whatever they can find washed up on the beach and leave it at the top of this hill. Fortunately we found a long board so that the 3 boats could be on the same sign. One evening our project was to construct our sign so we showed up at the tiki hut with saw, chisel, and markers and let the creativity flow. We found signs of friends who were here as early as last week and as long ago as 2 years ago.

Our Warderick Wells Anchorage
from atop Boo Boo Hill

Leaving Warderick Wells Mooring Field we cruised south to Cambridge Cay. There are quite a few things to see and do in that area (all natural--nothing commercial!). We we took our dinks to O'Brien's Reef AKA the Sea Aquarium. A very aptly named reef where the sea life was incredible! It was absolutely like swimming in an aquarium.

The salt concentration in the water here is so high that no effort’s required to stay afloat. All we used was our snorkel gear and the fish didn’t see us as an intrusion. Even though they’re nocturnal we did see a spiny lobster backing into his liar.

There are so many different kinds of fish and even with a identification book we couldn't identify them all. The angel fish were the most spectacular---and the parrot fish---and the grouper---and the…!

Conch shell lined path to Bell Rock on Exuma Sound

Bell Rock

There’s a huge rock on that beach shaped like a bell (Bell Rock) with a huge hole and the wind whistles through it.

Here stands our motley crew atop Boo Boo Hill
Laura, Bill, Barb, Barry, (back) Nancy and Peter

We walked down the beach and there was an Australian Pine that people have decorated with flotsam jetsam that’s washed up on shore.

Another not-to-be-missed sight in the Cambridge area is a place where the ocean rushes thru rocks and is called Rachel’s Bubble Bath.

Rachel's Bubble Bath

Barry and Bill in Rachel's Bubble Bath

Can’t describe it and pictures certainly don’t do it justice but our 2 buddy boats and another couple in the anchorage (who are from TX) went over there in our dinks.

After lunch we 6 went to a little near-by beach that drops off to 7+ feet about 4 ‘ from shore and is a swimming pool w/o lines. The other 5 stood around marinating and talking while I swam. When I used to do swim workouts, there’d often be some old guy in a lane swimming back and forth w/ mask and snorkel and we’d snicker and wonder how he ever gets his heart rate up that way Well, today that was me!!!!!! Felt like I could swim to Haiti breathing thru a snorkel. It’s that bilateral breathing and flip turns that make it a workout. They were all ready to go and the old woman kept swimming w/ her mask and snorkel!!!

1980's Light Plane Crash

Again we parted ways and Nancy of Sea Angel and Bill dinked to a beach to follow another trail. Peter went home and I went kayaking. Just drifting in the shallows waiting to see which way the wind and current would take me was so relaxing---like I needed ‘relaxing’. Used one end of my paddle as a rudder with current and wind as my propulsion. I just relished drifting over little sea things creeping along the bottom; watching different kinds of sea grass undulating in the current; and listening to the gentle lapping against the hull.

The 6 Bohemians again!

Primitive as it sounds, after my kayaking, I lathered with Joy on the aft deck and rinsed away the brine. When Bill and Nancy returned from their hike it was time to settle in for the evening. We declined a 6-some happy hour/dinner and opted to just hang out, read, and have a quiet evening at home.

This remoteness and isolation was kinda bothering us at first but now we’re liking it so much better. Guess it’s because this is such a perfect playground. You just cannot NOT get in this water!!! The salt concentration is so high that my lips feel like they’ve been pickled in alum but I’m lovin’ it!!!!!!! Returning to the conventions of cultured society is gonna be oh, so difficult!

Black Point Settlement is such a sweet little community. The people are wonderful; scenery is spectacular; and the food, unsurpassed.

Black Point Settlement's Post Office

This is the clinic staffed by one RN and desparately in need of supplies

This little picturesque village is on the 12 mile long Great Guana Cay and is graced with coconut palms and casaurinas. Fishing and plaiting are the primary sources of income although several entrepaneurers have established a laundry, several restaurants, a bar/liqour store, small marine supply store, and are doing very well. The community is very well kept; its pastel homes are immaculate as are their lawns. The restaurants are spic and span and the laundry and little store are spotless. Our country could learn some very practical lessons from these folks.

I don't usually post twice in one day--once a month used to be my habit but while we have internet access I need to take advantage of that because these opportunities are few and far between.

Bill and Laura

At anchor at Black Point, Exuma

#33 C April 2011 Bimini - Berry Islands - Frazers Hog Cay - Nassau, New Providence - Highbourne Cay - Hawksbill Cay - Warderick Wells

2011-05-05T18:59:00.003-04:00

Lookie what we found beach combing!

Departed Bimini the morning of 20 April and anchored NW Shoal Anchorage and the Berry Islands' Frazers Hog Cay. We were being so badly beat up by the seas that we detoured to New Providence Island and tucked into a marina in Nassau which was a major deviation from our itinerary but long ago we learned not to make plans---but just to have intentions. Nassau is the capitol of the Bahamas at the Tongue of the Ocean and on the NW corner of New Providence Island. We were there 8 years ago via a cruise ship so were looking for a more basic, remote, "real" Bahamas experience this time, however we were most happy to find a safe haven from the high winds. The city offers all you might want in a large city so we took advantage of the grocery store and Starbuck's Internet. We also visited Paradise Island and Atlantis. What a display of opulent and conspicuous consumption! Everything's so Disney Land perfect and plastic.

Glass sculpture just outside entrance to the Atlantis Casino

There's definitely a resort air about the place but it didn't meet our expectations for our out-islands experience. If we'd been blind-folded, deposited there, de-masked and asked to identify our location, we could've easily guessed any coastal city USA. One of the mega-yachts had a Smart Car on its upper deck.

We've seen helicopters but never a car. That boat seemed huge till we went around the corner and there was one 5 stories high that made the Smart Car boat look like a peanut. Another example that size is relative.

Despite the "conspicuous consumption" there's a lot of old world charm and history there if you know where to find it. Fort Fincastle overlooks the harbor and was visit-worthy. We rode a bus that they call "jitneys" out to Cable Beach on Easter Monday and these Nassau folks really know how to take full advantage of a holiday. There were so many cars there and the beach was carpeted in humanity. They were shoulder to shoulder!

We did a "round trip" on that jitney and at the driver's recommendation, we took a 2nd jitney from a nearby stop downtown and rode a huge loop west of Nassau. As in Bimini, I was charmed by the natives. The lady sitting behind me tapped me on the shoulder and asked how we were enjoying our visit. We chatted as we rode and she pointed out different sites and areas of the city. She also called our attention to the mango and banana trees that were heavy with almost-ripe fruit. The bus stopped out in the country where one of the passengers got off...and we waited 5-10 minutes thinking that it must be a lay-over point The lady who'd gotten off, came back with a home-made sesame seed cake and a coconut cake for us. How sweet and what wonderful hospitality.

We spent 5 nights in Nassau waiting for the wind to lie down and when we did leave, we had a rolly ride but not as bad as it would've been had we not practiced some patience. 35 miles SE of New Providence, we rendezvoused with our buddy boats in the anchorage at Highbourne Cay, the first inhabited island in the northern Exumas. Since it's a private island with a restricted community, we didn't go ashore but spent the night and enjoyed the crystal clear waters.

These guys swam right by us!

Just north of the island are remains of a ship believed to have sunk in the 16th century and to be one of the oldest wrecks in The Bahamas. Highbourne was developed and run as an aloe plantation in the 1950's but high costs of production and shipping ended that. This little island is only 3 miles long, covering 500 acres. Its name is perfect because it's shaped like the letter H. Its highest point is 100 feet above sea level--one of the highest elevations the the Exumas.

After a night in Highbourne Cay, we arrived at Hawksbill Cay anchorage with the wind still blowing like crazy. Water was not only coming over the bow but up through the windows on the fly bridge! Hawksbill is an uninhabited island with beaches on both sides is said to be one of the most beautiful cays in the entire Exumas.

This was our view as we topped the hill at Hawksbill Cay

Rugged terrain of limestone and coral

We dinked to shore and followed a marked trail that leads to the ruins of 10 houses and numerous outbuildings. The houses date from the Loyalist period, approximately 1783-1830. Near one of the houses is the remains of a beehive oven surrounded by piles of conch shells. These ovens were not only used for cooking but also to incinerate the conch shells that they used to make mortar to line the walls of the houses. We took our dink to the south end to the most fantastic beach in a little bight where the Exuma sound cuts through the coral and limestone into a little basin and out to the Exuma Bank. As at all the other beaches we've visited this week, we're just taken aback by our footprints being the only ones there and a feeling that no one had ever been there before---and the magnanimous absence of litter.

The last day of April we arrived at Warderick Wells Cay mooring field. This is home to the park rangers for Exuma Land and Sea Park. We've been out of civilization for so long that the sight of the Park Headquarters building was thrilling. We went ashore to register and were ecstatic to see tee shirts for sale! Books for sale! A person working there who was not 1 of us 6! There were no showers nor laundry nor trash disposal nor water nor fuel...but we felt like we were in the midst of big retail!

Our dink and only our footprints!

We hiked quite a few of the trails on Warderick. It's so interesting to see the jagged and pock-marked limestone of which the islands are made. the holes are irregular in diameter and depth. Some hold water. Some accumulated enough soil that little trees are sprouting from them. There's quite a bit of vegetation but much of that is being "pruned" thanks to the hutia, a fluffy rodent about the size of a rat.

They aren't native to this island but were brought here years ago and now their population exceeds 5000. Curly-tailed lizards also abound--and both are harmless to humans.

Hutia

More to come but while we have wifi, need to make hay while the sun shines.

Bill and Laura
Anchored Black Point Settlement,
Middle Exumas
Bahamas

#33 B April 2011 Part II Miami - Bimini

2011-04-23T21:04:00.005-04:00

Farewell, Miami!

Kindred Spirit and our 2 buddy boats awoke to a beautiful Miami morning. Each of us was bursting with excitement and anticipation of our Atlantic Ocean crossing to the Bahamas. The 6 1/2 hour trip could not have been more perfect! Seas were calm, wind light, and traffic non-existent. The sun's rays glinted off the water and looked like sparkling diamonds. The only life that we saw weren't dolphins as we've become so accustomed to seeing but flying fish. The first one I saw reminded me of a Purple Martin but they need fresh water so nixed that thought. The major clue was when it dived into the water and didn't come back up.

Channel entrance into Alice Town, Bimini, Bahamas

The color of the ocean was reminiscent of the contents of a blue ink well (if you're from that era) or an endless sea of sapphires. As we neared the entrance to Alice Town, Bimini, our yellow quarantine flag was raised on the starboard side and we prepared for docking.The beauty of the range of shades from clear blues to turquoise was breath-taking. After clearing customs, we replaced our quarantine flag with the Bahama flag and the 6 of us went ashore.

Sapphire blue waters of the Atlantic

Joe's Conch Shack had been recommended by friends Lynn and Reid for fabulous authentic Bahamian conch chowder. 1st of all, the description of "shack" was quite complimentary. In actuality, it was a roof, crowned with a huge turtle shell, and resting on 4 posts. Joe and any sign of his culinary delight was profoundly absent. To a native, I inquired about another possible location (since this wasn't quite a 'shack', I thought we may be in the wrong place) and was told that we were in the right spot and "Joe is on and off". Apparently that day and the next, Joe was "off". Restaurants/cafes (loosely used terms) abound. All but a couple are in peoples' homes so options were many and we had a difficult time deciding where to have dinner. Our choice was a good one and each of us sampled Bahamian cuisine.

Joe's Crab Shack

I fell in love with Alice Town and the Bahamians. Every SINGLE person with whom we interacted or just met on the street was very friendly, warm, and welcoming. One of my favorite things to do is talk to people I don't know---and this was fertile ground. The island is 7 miles long and 700 feet wide so of course everyone who lives there knows everybody else. The main street is very narrow and shops open right at the curb. There's only 1 other north-south street and it runs along the beach. I was pretty much overwhelmed at the poverty and basic simplicity of these people. There are some golf carts and very few cars--each of which is banged, dented, and pretty ragged. It's our guess that cars provide status---it's definitely not the houses but leaves me wondering the pecking order of the vehicles. Regardless of whether you're walking or cycling (there are no sidewalks), the carts and cars fly past with only a millimeter between them and you. I wonder how many pedestrians are mowed down by Bimini drivers.

Typical Bahamian Grocery Store

Bimini looks like an island where dreams began but were abandoned. We saw signs saying "Keep Bimini Clean" but so many beer bottles, cans, cigarette butts, Styrofoam,and trash in general, was strewn everywhere. I don't believe that it's the tourists who are littering. When we'd go to the beach we'd take bags to pick up litter and the natives just didn't understand our doing that. Bill and I rode our bikes to explore the length of the island. I stopped when I saw 2 men loading debris in a truck because one of them was banging a green coconut on the edge of the tailgate. He told me that inside was "coconut water" that tasted very good. I asked if I needed to pick one up off the ground or was it OK to pick it from a tree. He opened the truck door and asked how many I wanted. I told him that 1 would be a gracious sufficiency. He said he'd give me a demonstration so he got another coconut, whipped out a huge machete and began chopping the coconut with great vigor and dangerously close (I thought) to the fingers of his other hand. He got to the membrane, punctured it, and showed me the clear juice flowing from it. "It would be a pity to waste this", he said as he turned it up and drank. I learned that coconut water and gin is a popular drink but he told me if he'd put "sweet milk" in it, then it'd be called "gully wash"!

Bimini's beach where we enjoyed snorkeling and shelling

Sign on door on Bimini's main (and only) street

There were about 10 tiny shops in the straw market and I talked at length to each woman shop-owner. As I walked away I felt like I had 10 new "best friends" and was richer for our conversations.

#33-A April 2010 South Beach - Ft. Lauderdale - Palm Beach - Stuart - Palm Beach, Miami

2011-04-17T18:47:00.005-04:00

On our journey north we stopped in Miami Beach for the first time and anchored in front of Julio Inglesais home on Star Island.

Just 1 of a parade of cruise ships that passed our anchorage in Miami.

Our friends, Kate and Steve, were already in the anchorage and we had the treat of spending some time with them. We found the South Beach area most stylish with its Art Deco architecture.

Miami Skyline

The 4 of us took the bus and rail to Coconut Grove to visit Vizcaya, built in the 1910's. It is a glimpse from the past, not to be missed with its phenomenal man-made and natural resources. That was the decade when Gilded Age cultural standards were enlivened by the irreverent spirit of the dawning Jazz Age.

Vizcaya's Bay Entrance

It also introduces visitors to Miami’s place in history when America’s wealthiest industrialists created lavish homes inspired by the palaces of Europe. Vizcaya is a lens through which to learn about art, interior design, architecture, landscape design, horticulture, and the environment, as well as the role of internationalism in the history of the United States and Miami. James Deering of Harvester International Corporation, conceived the plans for this estate and its construction took only 2 years.

Entrance to Vizcaya Estate

Flagler Island is man-made and a hang-out for weekend boaters. At the base of the obelisk Henry Flagler Monument stand 4 allegorical statues. Each faces a cardinal direction and represents a signature aspect of Miami Beach. Representing industry, a man in a Roman toga stands facing due north, holding a small building and a scroll. A female figure representing education, faces due east, wearing a dress and a cape. She holds a pile of books and reaches out with her left hand in a welcoming gesture. A statue of a sailor faces due south, shielding his eyes from the sun. He holds a shovel and sits on a plant as he stands for Pioneer.A female figure in a long dress with a tiara represents prosperity. She holds a cornucopia and a purse clutched to her chest with her left hand and her right hand reaches to the west.

Flagler Monument representing engineering, prosperity, education, and industry

One of the many poignant sculptures in the Holocaust Garden

The Holocaust Monument is in memory of the 6 million Jewish victims. The giant 42 foot tall bronze sculpture is reflected in the placid lily pad studded pool and depicts close to one hundred figures. Each is crying out in anguish, pain, and despair; of life and of death in a man-made hell. Topping the sculpture is a hand evolving from an arm bearing the ultimate mark of the Jews' dehumanization, a number which became his identification, eradicating his real human identity.

Note the hand in the reflecting pond at Holocaust Monument

This memorial is very well done and makes for an emotional and thought-provoking afternoon.

The sun sets over Miami

In the 20's, Miami Beach, better known as South Beach, was a popular playground for the rich, hence the Art Deco architecture, and was a Mafia hangout in the 50s. By 1979, however, it was a Mecca for the elderly and the poor, and many of the once-swanky hotels had become retirement homes. Old-time beach residents remember when octogenarians in rocking chairs were a common sight on Ocean Drive. The Beach Preservation League was formed in 1976 in a successful effort to save the Art Deco architecture and revitalize the area.

Example of South Beach's Art Deco architecture

South Beach was introduced to the world in 1984 when Miami Vice used many of the buildings for backdrops. We were able to spend only a week in South Beach but absolutely loved it and can't wait to go back there. Since the 1920s, Miami Beach has been synonymous with glamour, glitz and non-stop sun. The epicenter of the beach is really on the barrier island’s south end, which is why South Beach is really what people mean when they refer to Miami Beach. It's only 17 blocks long and 12 blocks wide, making South Beach is a perfect place for a walk. South Beach was introduced to the world in 1984 when Miami Vice used many of the buildings for backdrops.

Sitting on the Dock of the Bay, South Beach, watching ships head out to sea

From Miami we headed north, stopping overnight in Ft Lauderdale and Palm Beach on our way to Stuart for the MTOA (Marine Trawler Owners Assn.) rendezvous. Attending this event at the Hutchinson Island Marriott Resort and Marina far exceeded our expectations! Every minute was packed. The theme, “Sea Florida - See Florida”, highlighted the unique ecology of the rendezvous site and we left with an appreciation of the waters and shores upon which we cruise.

A Thing of Beauty on Lincoln Road
Downtown South Beach

We learned so much in the workshops and played so hard renewing old friendships and making new ones. A special treat for us was a visit from our friend, Bobbi, who drove from Merritt Island to see us on the last day of the event.

Looks like a castle under construction, doesn't it!

Our plans for our virgin cruise to the Bahamas continued to gel and we departed Stuart with Peter and Nancy aboard Sea Angel and Iffin, cruising home to Barry and Barb. I always post our blog on the last day of every month but because we're unsure about Internet availability, this month's post will be a bit early. Later we'll catch you up on the rest of this month. Our fleet of 3 boats is heading south to Miami and we'll cross to Bimini to check into the Bahamas and then on to the Exumas. Where ever else we go will be a serendipity. Our buddy boats have cruised all of the Bahamas before so that provides us newbies with considerable solace.

I love what someone did with a collection of old pointe shoes!

Personally, camping is a fate worse than death! I can't imagine anything any worse. As we were entering Lake Worth Inlet, this mass camping extravaganza met my eyes! I caused me to need another cup of coffee!!!

Looks like Tent City. They'd just have to shoot me!!!!!

One last pass through Miami before heading to Bimini.

Approaching Miami from the Atlantic Ocean

Up close and personal with a cruise ship as it leaves Government Cut, Miami

Pilot boat en route to fetch the pilot who took the ship out of the harbor.

Boat load of excited vacationers leaving Miami.

We're in our Miami Beach anchorage eagerly awaiting the free boat wash that's coming.

T'is quite a sight to see these cruise ships so close to our anchorage.

Till later...maybe not till July---

Bill and Laura

#32 March 2011 Cruising Chronicles The Florida Keys

2011-03-31T08:19:00.000-04:00

This year's lost another page from the calendar and we spent it in the Florida Keys.

<><>This is the end of the bright work. Bill's finishing up our name boards under the shade of a coconut palm tree.

Just wondered if blonds have more fun!

This specimen of architectural interest is on Key Colony Beach. Note the arched copper roof over the boat house sheltering the huge power cat. This view is from the canal side and the front of the house is pictured below. The windows are port holes...or the port holes are windows. Fresnel lens are in the lighthouse which is functional. Between the crossed rusty anchors is a gargantuan manually operated windlass from times long ago. Huge pieces of lumber were put through the 4 openings and 8 strong men walked in a circle around the windlass in a successful effort to raise the anchors.

We began our 2nd month in Marathon with another trip to Key West and this time, in search of a cultural experience, we took our bikes and ourselves on the Key West Transit riding with locals for the 50 mile trip. This trip was precipitated by a required visit to the Customs and Border Patrol Office for an "interview" that granted us cards to get back into the U.S. after returning from the Bahamas later this year. Having our bikes there was wonderful--we could quickly get to where we wanted to go and parking wasn't an issue. As usual, we struck up conversations with regional characters and had a blast. Just tooling around town on our bikes we clocked 20 very easy and description-defying miles.

A beautiful view captured while kayaking through Sister Creek leading from Boot Key in Marathon to the Atlantic Ocean.

Iguanas, unfortunately, are common sights in the Keys. The morning that we left, this guy was climbing the piling and contemplating hitching a ride north with us. I discouraged him with a boat hook and what a diver/swimmer they are! Bill said I just missed my opportunity to have another pet!

Our next-slip-neighbor, Tom, is a hot dog cyclist from Annapolis so we tucked behind him on many challenging rides east and west of Marathon. He makes me work and I dare not get dropped so it's a great cardiovascular workout. We so love the Keys and riding mile after mile watching as the tropical beauty unfolds before us and breathing in the clean ocean air. We become mesmerized by the beauty of the clear waters, lush green mangroves and tall stately palms. I love stopping on the bridge over Vaca Cut and marveling at the cloudless sky; watching the tide rushing beneath the bridge as it changes direction every six hours day after day, as regular as clockwork; marveling at the graceful white heron who spreads its wings and effortlessly lifts off the ground. I wonder if those who see this on a daily basis could become jaded and not see the beauty and wonder that is all around us every single day.

Each week I volunteered at the public library in an effort to give back to this community that we've eaten up (and literally THROUGH) during our time here. Really enjoyed working with Karen, librarian, and doted on the patrons. My favorite area was the children's books. When our children were growing up, how many times did I read Where the Sidewalk Ends; The Giving Tree; Green Eggs and Ham; Goodnight Moon---ad infinitum---and listened as they read back to me? Re-shelving these books make the perfect opportunity to sit down, re-read, and reminisce. I loved seeing mothers bring their little children to the library, snuggle up with them in an easy chair and read---and to see them walk out the door with a bag filled with books almost heavier than they can carry. These little people were so precious, precocious, well-mannered and adorable! The questions they'd ask just made my chin drop! Their parents are definitely doing lots of things right! We've also enjoyed mixing with the locals in church, in their homes and at local community events. I feel that, when in a port, if we become acquainted only with other cruisers, our view of the area could easily be skewed. An affiliation with the residents is so enriching.

After leaving our marina heading south, we met some dock friends who'd gone to Grassy Key for lunch and we took a picture of them...

as they took a picture of us!

We've gone 528 miles on our bikes; have done some kayaking; returned to where the fish were biting with our friend, John, in his fishing boat; made great use of the lap pool; partied at more parties than I should enumerate; got most of the boat maintenance and spring cleaning done; attended the Community Concert Series; became Irish for a day as we celebrated with friends and St. Patty; met up with friends we've met along the way; but now it's time to move on.

Since we began cruising 2 1/2 years ago we've never stayed put this long---we were in Marathon almost 3 months. Our intent was to stay a month which is our usual tenure in any one port. Each day at 5 o'clock on the dot, everyone gathers at 4 long picnic tables to rehash the day and solve the problems of the world. The diversity of this group in education, professions, and life experiences is extraordinary and even more so is their self-effacement. None of them wear their past as a badge. This is such a homogeneous and cohesive group where everyone is congenial, sincere, and truly caring for dock mates. There's no back-biting, gossip, aspersion---and when have I ever seen that in a group this large? Unfortunately, I've not found these attitudes even in a church or work place.This little marina community has the sweetest custom of tossing flowers into the water in the just-vacated slip as each boat departs heading north. Very bitter-sweet! We looked back on floating hibiscuses and bougainvilleas in our wake as we waved farewell to our Marathon Family.

We celebrated our wedding anniversary on our last night before we cast off our lines. Way points were in the plotter for Islamorada, our anchorage for the night with Miami and South Beach being our last stops for this month.

Cafe Maroda

North of Key Largo en route to Miami we were treated to a dolphin show!

So ends another day in the Florida Keys.

Bill and Laura Bender

Kindred Spirit III

Miami, FL

#31 February 2011 Cruising Chronicles Marathon, Florida Keys

2011-02-27T20:24:00.001-05:00

Bahia Honda

While the rest of the US was bundled up, shoveling snow, and braving the ice, we were basking in the balmy breezes and fabulous weather of the FL Keys. We're in the middle of a spectacular 100 mile archipelago jutting into the tropical blue waters off

Florida's southern coast and this is unlike anywhere else in the United States.

Mom Laura and Son Matt

Matt fled the frozen tundra of Dallas, TX, and came to the Keys for a visit. His arrival found us on the upper deck of Burdine's Restaurant overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and the setting sun. We had a fabulous time and found time to go to Key West. Cycling and kayaking were also "musts". We also took a dive boat to Sombrero Key where we snorkeled and were amazed as we watched the rainbow of colors living in and on the reef.

My Son, Matt

Our world is so small! Anita, the wife of a fellow-cruiser was here for a visit. She and I were in elementary, middle and high school together in Pensacola, FL, graduating with a class of 625. We hadn't seen each other in 53 years!!!!!!!!!! A great serendipity. And yet another----1 of our 2 favorite performing musicians here graduated from New York's Rochester Institute of Technology, Bill's alma mater, and even stranger--they were there at the same time!!!

Anita and Laura

     One of our dock mates plays banjo and sings with a local musician so we've been able to sit back in a lush and beautifully tropical, very Keysie setting and enjoy his music.
     There is quite a bit of oil mogul Henry Flagler Railroad history here. Below is a portion of the old bridge which spanned the 5055 foot Bahia Honda Channel and was built over the old east coast railway. This was sometimes referred to as Flaglers' Folly. Construction began in 1905 and was completed in 1912.

Flaglers' Folly

A group of trawlers arrived from the Stuart area for a 2 night visit in Marathon. Certainly that called for a spur-of-the-moment party attended by 53 cruisers. Great food, wonderful folks, and a fun time!

Key West Sunset from Mallory Square

Virginia residents, Rosemary and Bill, friends we met at Cambridge's Grand Banks rendezvous last fall, were in Miami for the boat show and drove down to spend time with us. We had a great visit and lunched right on the beach overlooking the ocean. It as wonderful to catch up with them again.

Our days here are too quickly drawing to a close. Our cruising neighbors are so very interesting with lots of education and fascinating work histories prior to their retirement. There are quite a few CIA Agents; an assistant Secretary of State; a woman who's a nuclear engineer; a physicist; someone who was of the upper echelon of the Securities and Exchange Commission; and the list goes on. They are so very humble and self-effacing and none of them have ever mentioned their background unless specifically asked---and even then they don't elaborate. Admitting to my past as educator and registered nurse seemed to pale in comparison.

En route to our Valentine's Dinner

Since we were here for 2 months I felt it only right to give back to our community so I volunteered at the library. That has been so fascinating and so much fun. The diverse patrons were intriguing! "Giving back" really nets more than the outlay of time spent.

The Pig Hop

Marathon has an annual Pig Festival complete with Pig Races of Pot Belly Pigs and always 'something for the children'. Most events have drawing power for the little ones. There is something going on here every night and most certainly every weekend! For National Pig Day there were pig races. What a sight!

And they're off!!!!!!!

So it's with National Pig Day and the pig races that our month of February ends. Spring is coming for you guys---I feel it in my bones! Enjoy the daffodils and tulips and till next month...

Around the track they go faster than the speed of sound....

Bill and Laura

Kindred Spirit III

The Florida Keys

Marathon, FL

#30 Bender's Cruising Chronicles Fort Myers - Captive - Sanibel - Marco - Marathon

2011-01-31T10:51:00.000-05:00

Man alive!!! End of January ALREADY and time to post a blog I've not even begun to write! Where's the time going? If our days of gainful employment had flown this fast, working wouldn't have been so bad!

Ragged Ass Salon
Bill, Laura, and Bob (from SC)

We had a beautiful cruise from Fort Myers to Marathon with several stops along the way. Those clear waters draw me like a magnet so dropping the anchor was a must and tossing the kayak overboard was inevitable to explore little remote islands that harbor a wealth of shells that have never been pilfered.

No Name Pub in the FL Keys

(note bills decor)

Folks had said that Marathon should be called "Bore-a-thon" because there's nothing to do and a great place for us to do some long overdue boat projects. Wish I could remember who admonished us because they were dead wrong!!! This is a happenin' jumpin' place! There are things to do every single night---music and dancing galore, little theatre, lectures, great dining....

The days can be occupied by many "daytime" kinds of things. We're loving the cycling and have tucked into a group that rides several times a week. I'm the only woman which makes me kinda grin. We're led by a guy who's an absolute animal and challenges me to hang tough. One of the men is my senior by a number of years and I stayed on his tail. Bill asked why I never ride that fast with him. I said, "BECAUSE!!! Can you imagine the humiliation of being dropped by a 78 year old man!!! I had no choice!!"

Keys Fisheries overlooking Florida Bay in the Keys

There's also a pool here that is a high point for me! There are no black lines with the T's at the end for turning so I found a great use for ashtrays! I sink one near the each end so that I don't collide with the wall.

The other cruisers here (Boaters Sombrero Resort and Marina) are top-notch in the sociability catagory! We're surrounded by fantastic new friends and are loving every minute so hope to extend our stay. Being the warmest area of the US might also impact our decision!

First fishing lesson at 7 Mile Bridge

Southern tip of Marathon

This month is short on reportings without being redundant so I'm including excerpts from and article I wrote for a Grand Banks Owners organization. If you've ever wondered how this Sea Urchin seed ever became implanted in us, these snippits may satisfy your curiosity.

A Grand Banks Life

Short of saying, “all our lives”, it would be equally factual to say that for years each of us dreamed of living aboard “a boat”. Neither Bill nor I had any specifics regarding kind, size, or other requirements as part of our dream but one thing of which we were certain, we wanted to someday abandon terra firma, the conventions of cultured society, the majority of our “stuff”, and become sea urchins living aboard a vessel of some sort---although not a sailboat.

Although Bill hails from upstate NY; and I, FL; we called upstate SC home for many decades. In the fall of 2005, a friend asked if we’d fly with him to Annapolis to help bring his Hatteras LRC home to Charleston. We jumped at the opportunity and traveled for two weeks on his trawler where we became certain that this was the life for us! So the chase ensued for our future home; still without the foggiest idea of the object of our quest. The proverbial “everybody” related tales of misadventures of their explorations warning us of over-rated ragged-out boats peddled by obnoxious and over-bearing brokers.

In the Spring of 2006, we set up 16 appointments to see boats down the west coast of FL and up the east coast culminating at TrawlerFest in Stuart, consuming a week of vacation and all the energy we could muster. Each broker was well-versed and professionally exceptional. We zeroed in on 2 requirements—a centerline queen bed and sufficient headroom for my 6’2” Bill. Subsequently, after checking off yet another boat…after boat, when we returned home the end of that exhausting week, it was evident to both of us that a Grand Banks 42 Classic would be the perfect boat for our needs.

A very short month later, we found a boat in Satellite Beach, FL. After conversing with the owner, his responses to questions were what we were hoping. Days later, we drove south to see the Grand Banks, made an offer, which was accepted, contingent on surveys. Owners wanted to be boat-free by May 1, 2006, so we arrived in Satellite Beach, had hull and engine surveys, closed on our new boat, and brought her home to Charleston, SC., all in one fell swoop.

Haul for the surverys

October 2006, was cause for celebration as we christened our trawler, Kindred Spirit III. We had a grand party for many friends as we went through the water, earth, and wine rituals to appease the gods of the seas, removed the existing name and mounted our new sign boards declaring her new name.

My days of gainful employment closed as I retired from the Cancer Centers of the Carolinas as an oncology RN for an ambulatory chemotherapy infusion center. We sold our house to the first person who saw it June 2008 and had 30 days to move out. Our front door was open to charities and years of accumulations were hauled away save for a meager pile that would be transferred to our boat. With no place to lay our heads, I moved 3 hours away to the boat in Charleston and Bill commuted 3 hours until his retirement from Michelin North America where he was employed for 30 years and 4 days until September 2008!

December 2008, we cast off our dock lines as we headed south and began our lives as full-time cruisers.

So long Charleston and hello to full-time cruising

We just celebrated 2 years of being houseless (but hot homeless) and it’s far greater than we ever fathomed!!! The places we’ve visited, the experiences we’ve had, and the extraordinary people we’ve met have so enriched our lives. We continue to be thankful each day for the gift of this lifestyle.

We learned early on that we can’t have plans, only intentions. Being married to an engineer you can be sure we have an itinerary in spreadsheet form, but it is cast in Jello. It’s indisputable that we can’t predict a destination linked to a date. Mother Nature and Weather seem to get first dibs on that so we’ve learned to be patient and just hang out till it’s safe to continue our journey. That’s very stressless and guarantees that our knickers will not get knotted over what others refer to as plans.

A little manatee family hanging out off our swim platform in the Keys

January finds us in Marathon, FL, where we’ll remain for a couple of months before wending our way north to Stuart for the MTOA Rendezvous in mid-April, after which there will be a fleet of trawlers heading to the Bahamas for 2 months. Our northernmost port this year will probably be Charleston, SC, area in July till there’s a chill in the air when we’ll head south.

We wish each of you warmth until daffodils and tulips blom in the spring.

Bill and Laura Bender

864-525-5236

Sombrero Resort and Marina

Marathon, FL

December 2010 Stuart, FL, - Okeechobee Canal - Ft. Myers, FL #28

2010-12-31T23:56:00.003-05:00

December 2010

This has been an absolutely wonderful December! Sometimes chilly but we've been far warmer than we've been in the past 3 winters. Suppose we could attribute this to being farther south at this time of year.

As always, our time spent in Stuart was memorable. We enjoyed spending time with the Smiths, Prices, and Corcoran's--all sailors; and David, an old Charleston friend who's now happily living aboard his boat in Stuart.

This was our first experience at crossing Florida from the east coast to the west, via the Okeechobee Canal. We found it refreshingly beautiful. The locks were quick and easy and the pristine shorelines, delightful. Allegedly, there were camels on the north side of the canal. I think we saw one sans humps but Bill thought it was a sculpture. Who knows! I like the camel story best!

Most of this month was spent in Ft. Myers at Legacy Harbour Marina, at the recommendation of the Larsons, sailing friends from Solomons Island. Our dock is full of party animals. There is a social hour EVERY day at 5. Tuesday night is restaurant night. Thursday nights are pot luck. The weather's so wonderful that everyone's outside every day playing or working on their boats.

We visited the seashell-ladened Sanibel and Captiva Islands. There were so many sea urchins, starfish, intact bi-valves, and so many other shells that we had to be careful where we stepped to keep from crushing them. Could've walked the shoreline forever.

Naples! What a city! Jillion dollar bills dripping from every tree and light post. Homes are palatial! There was a home under construction on the Gulf. It was such a huge project that it even had a construction trailer on site!

Ft. Myers proudly promotes the Edison and Ford Winter Estates showcasing the homes, gardens, laboratory, and museum of these men. We spent half a day there but easily a day could be consumed touring the estates. Christmas lights adorn trees, fences, roof-lines, and windows, transforming it into a Christmas Wonderland. Henry Ford was a less than admirable fellow in his personal and employer/employee relationships but Thomas Edison was an admirable husband, father, and incredibly intelligent inventor. The museum and lab were facinating and an interesting memory- refresher of all the inventions he fathered. In 1925, Harvey Firestone, a friend of Edison and Ford, gave Edison a 4 foot Banyan tree, a species of the ficus. The trio was researching a source of natural rubber. The Banyan tree produces a white milky sap (latex) that can be used to create rubber. Now, 85 years later, this Banyan Tree is about an acre in diameter and is the largest Banyan in the country. The museum includes 7 galleries that relate the lives and associations of Thomas Edison and Henry Ford. There are exhibits of Edison's inventions and Ford's automobiles.

As we cycle around the city, I continue to marvel at the prolifically blooming Bougainvillea that range from small plants to large trees. In South Carolina I felt very "green thumb" to have that plant survive the summer in a hanging basket. Ficus (Weeping Figs) are everywhere in this area. When I lived inLouisiana and South Carolina, my ficus was very persnickety! If I moved it from one side of the room to the other, it complained by dropping leaves. Here, they're huge privacy hedgerows sporting thick green foliage. Orchids sprout from tree trunks proudly displaying their delicate pastel colors.

One Saturday night a month, the city presents a Downtown Music Walk. Music abounds on every street corner and in the Patio de Leon but the real gem was staged in front of the art gallery by The Nowhere Band! They covered the full spectrum of The Beatles long and varied career and offered a reproduction of 60's Beatles performances blending period costumes and authentic instruments. The evening was an experience any true Beatles fan would love as well as the smiles and memories those songs brought back to life.

We had a remarkable and intangible Christmas gift. On the eve and day of Christmas, we were given an opportunity that we've often spoken of wanting to do "some day". Through very interesting circumstances and a story for another day, we were able to volunteer in a homeless shelter Christmas Eve helping distribute and wrap presents for children whose parents couldn't afford to purchase gifts. Christmas Day we joined an army of other volunteers in preparing and serving dinner to these families and individuals. They were so thankful and appreciative. Sunday, the day after Christmas, we went to the worship service that many of these folks attend. A young woman that I remembered from the 2 previous days bestowed upon me a very long and heart-felt hug! Those 3 days were a greater gift to us than ever we could've given them.

Our dear friend, Bob, from Greenville, SC, who visited us in July when we were in Washington, DC, fled the southern SC blizzard, and spent several days with us in Ft. Myers. It has been our intention to show him in these few days, everything we've spent a month discovering. I think we are wearing him out and he will be happy to escape back to the SC frozen tundra.

Our 3rd oldest son celebrated his birthday this month. Happy birthday, Geoff.

The last night of 2010 will be celebrated in downtown Ft. Myers with marina friends and our SC friend, Bob. There will be live music on several stages and a 170' midnight ball drop from high above the promenade overlooking the marina along with fireworks.

You may remember that our intentions are always cast in Jello, but as they stand now, we will leave Ft. Myers 5 January en route to Marathon in the FL Keys. Who knows where we'll actually wind up. Every day for us is an adventure.

We send best wishes to each of you for a wonderful and peaceful 2011.

Bill and Laura Bender
Legacy Harbour Marina
Ft. Myers, FL

November 2010 - Rockville, SC, - Fernandina Beach, FL, - Jacksonville, FL, - St. John's River Cruise, FL, - Palm Coast - New Smyrna Beach - Merritt Island - Stuart

2010-11-30T14:10:00.002-05:00

November 2010 #27

Bender Cruising Chronicles

Bright and early on the first day of this month we were ready for the Rockville Marine crew to take us out of the water for a short haul to clean and inspect the hull and repack stuffing boxes. After some touch-up bottom paint we were back in the water and on our way south.

Kindred Spirit's Hull Getting a Breath of Fresh Air

We've had outstanding weather for cruising with cloudless and azure skies paired with imperturbable winds and seas. It's been so amusing to see dolphins again - I've missed those sweet mammals! As if in a Welcome Back greeting, on our first day south 2 gargantuan dolphins, 1 on each side just beneath the bow, swam with us for 1/2 hour or more and it was as if they were pulling us along. We took full advantage and drafted behind them as we were charmed by their antics. At day's end as we were anchoring, 8 to 10 of their kin were swimming in circles off our stern. A bit later as we kicked back in our chairs to relax and enjoy the close of another day, 2 dolphins swam very near to us and each with a solo performance, saluted us with a complete and arching jump out of the water. We and we interpreted those "signs" to be the consummate reception for being southward bound!

Results of depending on electronic charting

The above pictured cruiser blew past us in an anchorage and no-wake zone and continued to pass, on plane, sailboats and anyone else in his path. Could this be "pay-back" as well as an example of the fact that high tech can't replace eyeballs, paper charts and common sense on the waterway.

Because of a predicted electrical storm, instead of anchoring as we'd planned, we tucked into Fernandina Marina for 2 nights. Bob and Helen aboard Allez were also there and we had a delightful evening catching up on our lives since our last visit. We especially enjoyed hearing about the wedding of Jonathon, their son.

Strolling the streets of this little town was more delightful than I remember it. Maybe it's because we saw so many boarded up store fronts and poverty as a result of the waning economy on Maryland's eastern shore. Fernandina has some fascinating little shops as well as excellent restaurants. For our afternoon caffeine shot, we went into a coffee shop and immediately struck up a lengthy conversation with a gentleman from Crete who has spent his life sailing the 7 seas. Chatting with him was absolutely intriguing. We so often say that the best part of this lifestyle is the people we meet!

In Jacksonville we joined the trawler group, MTOA First Coast Cruisers 10 day St. John's River Cruise.

Jacksonville, FL

This river is 150 miles long and one of a small number of North American rivers that flows north! The weather was perfect. Very calm winds, Carolina blue skies, shorts and tee shirt temps enhanced the extraordinary beauty of this river.

Jacksonville Fire Boat

We enjoyed our stay at the Jacksonville's Metropolitan Marina, flanked by the water taxi "depot" on one side and an expansive and well manicured park on the other. Jacksonville Landing was a quick walk away as was Winn-Dixie. Our cruise kick-off dinner was at the Chart House, built in the early '60's, and is a restaurant of interestingly unique architectural design. This restaurant sits on the south bank of the St. John's River which offered a panoramic view of Jacksonville's skyline.

Rescue Drill

We continued south and into Six Mile Creek to tie to a 1500' dock belonging to the Outback Crab Shack for a dock gathering which preceeded samplings of the restaurant's menu.

Some of our St. John's River Cruise Fleet
Six Mile Creek's Outback Crab Shack

Farther up river is Hontoon State Park. The park is a fascinating, undeveloped island, with 2 large mounds of snail shells left more than 3 centuries ago by the Timucutan Indians. There are ample trails and paths for running and walking. I put my iPod away in deference to the sounds of nature. The only euphony was the sound of my feet on the packed sand, the serenade of birds, and snapping of dead limbs as the forest's inhabitants scurried about their woodland duties. There were neither cans nor Styrofoam but shame on the smoker who flicked a butt on the trail because that was the only visible remnant of current civilization.

We took our dink to the Blue Spring aquifer with 72 degree water making it a sanctuary where manatees winter. 112 million gallons of crystal clear water gushes from this natural spring every day. There are numerous species of fish whose colors are enhanced by the refraction of the sun through the lucid water and off the white sand bottom.

Blue Spring Manatees

The little town of Sanford that has weathered disease, a fire, a toranado, and a smattering of hurricanes, continues to sit atop the southern banks of Lake Monroe. This was our turn-around point. The afternoon was beautiful for strolling this well-kept little town. When you're in Sanford, put The Willow Tree on your restaurants-to-visit list. Despite the name, this is a German restaurant extroidinaire complete with live German music and a waiting line a mile long. This is definitely a jumpin' happnin' place.

The St. Johns, a lazy river flowing at 0.2 knots, induces relaxation. No need to be in a hurry here because of the gators, manatees, and crooks and turns of the river that keep cruising at a snail's pace. The moss-bearded cypress trees bow low over the tannin-stained waters reflecting their images skyward. This has got to be nature at her best!

Epping Forest Yacht Club
Jacksonville, FL

Our end-of-cruise celebration was an enchanting evening spent at Jacksonville's Epping Forest Yacht Club. Built in 1920, this was the luxurious riverfront mansion of industrialist Alfred I. duPont and was considered one of America's finest estates. It has evolved over the years into one of the most exquisite yacht clubs in the South and it retains its original charm. Recognized on the National Register of Historic Places, Epping Forest Yacht Club now offers a traditional elegance reminiscent of times gone by, while offering the modern conveniences of today. It is meticulous and the dining room offers an unforgettable view of the English Gardens and St. Johns River. The Fitness Center has 6 pools so you know I was in my element!!! We can't adequately thank our hosts, Barb and Bill for making this respite possible.

View from dining room of English gardens and St. John's River

Back in Jacksonville for a bit where we cycled through Avondale, Riverside, and San Marco -- relishing every thing we saw as each area presents a different flavor of the city.

Continuing south we spent several nights with Barry and Barb at their Palm Coast dock. We were saddened by the death of Barry's mom during our visit necessitating a trip for them to Miami. One evening at a ristorante Italiano in the European Village, we side-stepped (once again!) healthy eating and had a gastronomic repast in the company of the Slatterys, Lowes, and Roberts. The evening was culminated with John and Mary in their new and extraordinary home equipped with the touch of a button to accomplish any comfort need that you might have. Barb, Barry, Bill, and I were also the guests of the Slatterys for a pasta dinner at their yacht club. Any wonder why we waddle!!?? To atone for our irresponsible eating habits we cycled a bit less than 40 miles scoping out this area as a possibility for living on land, if that necessity ever presents itself---heaven forbid! We met a very interesting couple who invited us into their home---after chatting with them for 5 minutes. I'm telling ya, we have the most fun meeting a schmoozing with total strangers---and with many we stay in touch.

Last time we cruised through New Smyrna Beach, we didn't get to see our sailing buds, Cozette and John--they were busy being new grandparents so we were eagerly looking forward to a visit with them. They were waiting at the dock when we arrived, gave us their car for provisioning, had happy hour ready for us upon our return, and we saved a bit of room for dinner at a favorite seafood restaurant of theirs. We've known them such a sort time but it never feels that we're new friends. We always enjoy their company. Bill and I celebrated my birthday in a rather eccentric manner but it was fun and we do enjoy the "unusual". God gave me an beautiful birthday present! As we were underway that day, there were 7 dolphins swimming just beneath our bow and we were flanked by 5-6 each side. They gifted us with their performance for 20-30 minutes! I grinned for the rest of the day.

Next was our much anticipated visit with Bobbi Huck in Merritt Island. Again, she gave us a vehicle to do running around beyond the distance and safety of our Bike Friday's. The 3 of us have a fave Tex-Mex restaurant there so we spent our Thanksgiving Eve with our faces in the chip basket. Kelly, her Jacksonville daughter, was visiting for the holiday weekend. We enjoyed a Thanksgiving feast at Eau Gallie Yacht Club that was fit for a gastronome. We love Bobbi and cherish the time we were able to spend with her.

By-passing Vero Beach where there were 2-3 boats to a mooring ball was not a cause for anguish. When we had small cruisers we didn't relish rafting and we've not had a change in attitude. Sunset Bay, Stuart, is quite full but each has her own mooring. Would you believe Mexican again! Sailing friends, Kate and Steve and Wayne and Linda, whom we've known for several years and from 2 different cities are here so we had to descend on the local Tex-Mex and continue our study of who has the best chips and salsa. Jury's still out. Our first full day was another day of cycling and refreshing our memoires of this town. We're looking forward to getting together with a long-time friend from Charleston's marina, David, who lives aboard in Stuart.

Our plans are cast in Jello so no telling when we'll leave our mooring here but when we do, we're going through the Okeechobee and on to Ft. Meyers on the west coast. Stay tuned.

Bill and Laura Bender

Kindred Spirit III

Sunset Harbor Marina

Stuart, FL

Cambridge, MD - Oxford, MD - Reedville, VA - Portsmouth, VA - Morehead City, NC - Isle of Palms, SC

2010-10-31T19:21:00.001-04:00

What a fantastic month this has been as we welcome the fall season, however the weather in Cambridge, MD during our stay for the Grand Banks Rendezvous was anything but beautiful! Wind! Rain! Cold! -- like you wouldn't believe. We extended our stay there because of the weather and certainly didn't want to stick our nose out into the Chesapeake in that weather and invite disaster. Then we'd have to rename the bay Chesapuke Bay!

Some of the boats at the Grand Banks Rendezvous

Oxford, MD, our next stop, was at one time the preferred pretty place to live and is one of the oldest towns in MD. It's also listed on the National Registry of Historic Places and declares its official founding as 1683. It is cute, charming, well-kept, and quaint but dead as a door knob! From the water it appears to be a thriving marine center--and there are several boat yards but once you set foot on terra firma, it's another sad sight of what used to be. The high point (and ONLY point) is the Robert Morris Inn and Tavern. There were actually 2 couples in the bar---the only sign of life we saw anywhere. It is also quite historic, dating back to 1710, and overlooks Oxford's harbor. The village sports a grocery/wine/"necessaries" store and a library. After our walking tour we wanted a cup of coffee but there was none to be had! No coffee shop nor ice cream store. What does that tell you!!!

An Overcast Day on the Chesapeake Bay

Continuing south from Oxford, Reedville, VA, was our next hesitation. In the 1800's it had the highest per capita income of any town in the U.S. A handful of fishing boat captains and factory owners caught and processed menhaden-a migratory fish that frequents the rivers that flow into the Chesapeake Bay rivers. This fish is small, oily and not fit for human consumption but is useful for aquaculture, livestock feeds, pet foods, and cosmetics. The mansions , built by factory owners and ship captains, still exist along Main Street (locally referred to as "Millionaire's Row") and are a testimony of that bygone era. They are well-kept, but not overwhelming; a couple have become B and Bs, and the town is a nice place to hang out for a quiet day. The once-diverse fishing industry has been consolidated into a single processing factory, Omega Protein, Inc.

A Menhaden fishing boat returning from a day on the bay

This month was the first anniversary of our little Bailey Dawg's demise and apparently she returned to visit us. Something strangely wonderful occurred on the afternoon of her death and very near the time that she died. I found a tuft of her dog hair in a little curl lying on our aft deck. In the past year that deck has seen many boat washings, torrential rains, and high winds so her hair had not been there for a year. It was clean, fluffy, not dirty nor matted. It was surprising that we heard from several of you with stories of a similar experience. I believe that Bailey came back for a visit and just left her 'calling card'. Providence has a way of showing us things that defy explanation! Of course I've saved that little tuft!

As occurs in this cruising life, we were in need of a boatyard and a refrigeration technician so we went to Zimmerman Marine off the Mobjack Bay near Cardinal, VA. Four serendipities--1) We spent time with our friends Kate and Steve whom we met in Charleston 4 years ago. Their boat was also there for repairs. 2)We had outstanding service from this company. They will now be our boatyard as we plan repairs/and updates on the Chesapeake. 3) It was our good fortune to go to Annapolis to the Boat Show with Kate and Steve. What a great time of information gathering that was. We maximized our time there and visited every booth dragging home reams of material. The weather was warm and the day was fabulous! 4) While at the boat show we ran into Pat and Rick who are members of our trawler organization and who'd driven down from Alexandria for the show. That was a huge surprise and delight!!!

Flexibility is 99% of this lifestyle. We were delayed a day in Cambridge because of weather and 3 days at Zimmerman's due to repairs. Intentions were to have lunch with a high school classmate and her hubby in Norfolk but we had to blow on through hurrying to our southern destination.

Three of our children celebrate fall birthdays---Matt, father of 4 daughters resides in TX.

Matt Breaux, Son #2!

Courtney, mother to one daughter, is a SC resident.

Courtney Eidson, Daughter #1

Andy is Izzi and Joseph's dad and he is also a Texan.

Andy Breaux, Son #3

Andy's post-ride recoup

Three of our off-spring celebrated their adventure into growing older and wiser. Fall is so beautiful and what a magnificent season of harvest to celebrate your birthdays. Happy birthday to each of you.

Martha and Jim, friends who live in Wild Dunes (Charleston), drove to Morehead City and cruised south with us for 5 days on our trip to Isle of Palms. They were more than generous in bringing a sumptuous quantity of prepared food! That was such a treat so no cooking happened during their visit which allowed more time for laughing, talking, and playing.

Martha, Laura, Bill, and Jim

We loved being back in our church, Seacoast Community Church, in Mt. Pleasant, SC. We enjoy visiting other churches as we travel but we cherish being back in our home church. The 10 days we were in Charleston absolutely flew! Instead of driving back to Greenville for our yearly medical/dental/optical appointments, we took care of that in Charleston/Mt. Pleasant and what a whirlwind that was of zipping all over the area. I'm sure our little car is glad when we're gone and dreads our annual return. Both of us got an A+ on our yearly physicals so we're done with all that for another year. It was so good to visit with our Low Country friends and look forward to "returning home" next fall.

This last day of October we drop our lines and continue south in our effort to stay a bit ahead of the cold weather. Hasn't this been a spectacularly glorious month!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Fall has gotta be my favorite season--until Spring rolls around!

Till after Thanksgiving----

Bill and Laura

Currently underway and south of Charleston

New York - Baltimore - Cambridge #26 September 2010

2010-09-30T14:47:00.104-04:00

Norm, Jean, Bill, Laura, Lynn, and Reid
Baltimore Tiki Barge

We began this month, sans boat, on a NY farm that produces corn, tomatoes, melons, pears, apples, peaches and plums. I was in hog heaven!!!!!!!!!!!! Bill's sister, Doris, was our very gracious hostess who made it possible for us to visit nieces, nephews, and cousins.

During our NY visit, Himmicane Earl appeared to be headed in the direction of Baltimore where Kindred Spirit was docked. When we left her, we didn't know of Earl's intended track. Friends, Julie and Jim, who are a couple of slips from us, kept a diligent watch for us and were prepared to remove our canvas and adjust lines if needed. Thanks goodness, Earl had other places to go. So many of you inquired about our safety during that time and we're appreciative of your concern and your thinking of us. It was a little nerve-wracking to not be "on site" when there's the prospect of a storm.

Bill and his sister, Doris

It was good to get back home and renew friendships with cruisers we've met in the past. Catching up with Jim and Julie over lunch in one of their favorite spots in Canton was a much anticipated treat. They have miles of cruising experiences beneath their hull and we cling to their every word.

As old-folksie as it probably sounds...and IS...we laughed through a 3 hour live performance of Garrison Keillor and his Prairie Home Companion cast and loved every second of it. Truth be told, I went primarily to see his sound man and that guy's incredible, so imaginative, and a real hoot.

Bill and Jim spent a day at the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Museum, the oldest, most comprehensive American railroad collection in the world. They took a round trip ride on the first mile of commercial track recognized as the birthplace of American railroading.

Stained Glass in ceiling of Penn Station, Baltimore

One of many interesting "items" at American Visionary Art Museum on Federal Hill

...but no "Pride of Signs"....

Charmaine, our "Iron Woman" 5 bicycle/car-free cycling friend from Washington hopped Amtrak with her little compact Brompton bike and came for a visit. We rode the Gwynns Falls Trail, a linear greenway trail whose eastern terminus begins at I-70 near historic Franklintown. The trail follows the Gwynns Falls stream valley through 5 parks to the Inner Harbor and the middle branch of the Patapsco River. This trail is one of the entry points of the Chesapeake and its watershed. Accidentally, we stumbled upon a wonderful bar and grill on Federal Hill and the 3 of us had a great lunch/dinner.

Lynn and Reid, a couple who became our friends several years ago in Charleston and are here in Baltimore on a 94' Nordlund, came for dinner and an evening of laughs and "picking their boating/cruising brains". They, too, have extensive cruising experience and are a gold mine of information for us. They came bearing Toll House cookies that Lynn had baked FROM SCRATCH. I was impressed!!!!!! :-)

The Marine Trawler Owners Association Rendezvous was a wonderful week with greater than 80 boats and 200+ participants. There was a sumptuous amount of food, seminars, food, happy hours, food, a Dinner Cruise aboard a 3 decker ship, conversations with interesting and fun folks. Who'd think cruisers would want to take a cruise on a commercial boat...but we did and it was a riot!!! Most of our Happy Hours were on the T Head Dock and a 32 year old guy who lives on a sailboat said we reminded him of Seniors (as in old folks) on Spring Break!

We ended the week with a Pub Crawl through historic Fells Point. We left on foot at 11:30 and many pedestrian miles later we crawled home at dusk. We trudged all the old irregular brick paved streets getting a history lesson each time we entered the portals of another establishment. Among the many little bars that we toured, Max's Taphouse has 140 beers on tap and 1200 different brands of bottled beer and Birds of a Feather with 120 single malt scotches!!!

Don't believe the cleat's proportionate!

The Spirit--our dinner cruise ship

Fell's Point bar with 120+ beers on tap!

In 1814,Fell's Point was at the center of a conflict that greatly influenced our identity as Americans when Baltimore was our nation's capitol. British forces briefly occupied the city but a combination of military and civilian efforts halted their progress at Baltimore's doorstep. This turning point in American history is often overlooked in history classes.

On the first day of TrawlerFest, I volunteered at the trawler owners association booth and loved schmoozing with folks as they strolled past.

We're ending this month in Cambridge, MD, for our first Grand Banks Rendezvous. To arrive here from Baltimore we once again crossed the Chesapeake Bay, one of the world's largest estuaries where salt and fresh water mix amid the ebb and flow of tides. The Bay waters extend almost 200 miles with 12,000 miles of tidal shoreline and is so very beautiful. Cambridge is a quaint and old town and a great place to be tucked into during these monsoon like rains. We're learning so much from other Grand Banks owners and are thoroughly enjoying this rendezvous and opportunity to learn from others.

Enjoy this autumn season and till next month---
Bill and Laura
Kindred Spirit III
Cambridge Yacht Basin, MD

August 2010 Washington DC - Lottsburg VA - Baltimore, MD - New York #25

2010-08-30T20:00:00.104-04:00

Houseboat across from us in DC

Have you ever seen a corn field on board a boat???

On August 1, we very reluctantly cast off our dock lines and said goodbye to Washington, DC. Across from our slip we enjoyed such a lovely view of a well-tended flourishing and colorful garden. Don't let the flowers fool you. She has a farm behind her blooms and on this farm are tall corn stalks!

We pulled into our slip at Olverson's Marina, Lottsburg, VA, just off the Potomac River. This was our home last August and were looking forward to our return this year. What a contrast! We left the din of DC where we'd accustomed ourselves to the constant bawl of sirens and roar of jets and helicopters and find ourselves the next day in a very rural, pastoral setting where the only audible sound was the rustling of the sun-parched corn stalks. This area makes Mayberry look metropolitan. No one locks the doors to their homes, bicycles sit outside unlocked, and all the cars have their keys in the ignition. Meeting up with old friends from our visit last year and hearing tales of their year of cruising was fun. A major project ensued of removing all the windows, installing new tracks and glass. We gave the words "Open House" a new meaning because the galley and salon windows were removed to facilitate replacement.

Nowhere else in the world would it've been safe to have "Open House" 24/7 and not be concerned for the safety of ourselves and our worldly possessions but at Olverson's. We would go out for the evening never giving a thought to uninvited intruders.

While in Lottsburg, we went to a little Methodist church where the aging congregant women wear pantyhose and the men, stiffly starched collars and ties. I was catapulted back to the 1950's by their attire and the old fashioned hymn sings. Remember those? Someone yells out a page number and every single verse is sung. This continues for a good time portion of the service. The pastor even came to visit us! That was such a treat and we thoroughly enjoyed spending time with her. I don't think I can remember a pastoral call since the '40's or '50's.

Amazingly, there is an abundance of eateries in this area and we've sampled quite a few. One evening we went with a group of fellow cruisers to a small theatre out in the middle of the local countryside and were treated to an amazing production of the musical, Annie. The performers drove from nearby villages, as far away as 25 miles. The talent was outstanding and we're still overwhelmed with the performance which would've been par for a city...but as we walked out of the theatre, our olfactories were met with reminders that we were out in the country with fields and farms surrounding us.

The time came to cast off the lines and head for Baltimore. The Chesapeake was kind to us during our 2 days of travel and we were tucked into our slip at Anchorage Marina, Baltimore, without incident. On our first night there, friends Reid and Lynn whom we met 4 years ago in Charleston were across the Patapsco River on their gorgeous 92' Nordland. Dinghying across is quicker than walking/cycling/driving so they fetched us at our dock and ferried us to their boat for a delightful repast with them as well as with our mutual friends from Charleston, Norm and Jean, who were visiting. We had a most memorable evening.

Baltimore Harbor

The day after our Baltimore arrival we flew to the upstate of NY for a visit with Bill's family. The countryside is beautiful rural farmland on the shore of Lake Ontario. I love going there!!! The family is HUGE and so cohesive! Fresh fruits and vegetables abound as does a never-ending parade of home-baked/cooked items prepared by so many of this culinarily-adept family. His sister, Doris, was our selfless hostess and Karen, our niece, shared her family's Black Lake cottage with us.

Black Lake Mama and Baby Loons

Karen and her husband, Greg, have an entire fleet of watercraft at their waterside retreat so that was a great delight to us.

We're ending our month in NY but will be back in Baltimore for our September entry.

Black Lake Water Lilly

Till next month---

Bill and Laura

Upstate NY